Koriander

8 02 2010

Duh.  Everyone knows that Coriandrum sativum, the annual herb in the Apiaceae family familiarly named “coriander” is known in the Americas as cilantro.

Except for me.  Which is mildly devastating to the picture that I have of myself as a culinary saveur. More distressing, perhaps, is that I have long given up the hope of finding cilantro here, thus giving up an array of my favorite foods.  What is wrong with me?  How could I have not known this?

I’m so sorry Nigella.  I don’t deserve you, and I never did.

I could make an excuse here about the English to Hungarian language barrier, but Koriander is a pretty easy cognate to grasp.

So anyway, on Saturday, Györgyi called our local, upscale foodie market in town: Culinaris. “Cilantro?–please hold… Koriander? Of course we have Koriander…”

OMG

So I dashed there on my little Mexican flavored wings and snatched up the last batch. (The shortage was due to the other American ex-pats in Budapest, whose numbers are never more clearly expressed than at every holiday when there is a surprising shortage of Tortilla chips and avocados.)

Behold–the herb of the gods:

And since yesterday was Superbowl Sunday, I graced Györgyi with my salsa recipe. And bless her Hungarian heart, she loved it.

In honor of this great moment in my life in Hungary, I will post my favorite cilantro-dance of all time. Which I have done several times since we found it here and will do it again, and in public.

(The greatest animated character of all time, from the genius–yes I said it–genius, American Dad!):





Joy in Winter

2 02 2010

Not that we wouldn’t go to Margit Island alone in the winter. Cold air is good for the lungs. But there is something about walking around the cool, empty and snowcovered island property with a little cocker spaniel who is so enthralled in his joy of exploration, that just makes every winter morning one I want to spend in that moment there.

A few weeks ago we decided to go to the island. It was early morning–maybe 6 or 6:30 when we finally arrived. The sun hadn’t really tried coming up yet, but even when it did, it didn’t get very far.  Just a little fire lit in the distance:

It didn’t even seem like anyone was awake at the usually bustling Saturday morning spa. Covered by the leafless trees, the building looked like a haunted house.

Since there weren’t any people, I turned my camera to the peaking grasses,

frozen limbs,

and unplucked winter berries frozen in time.

As morning approached, the birds left their warm nests for food, passed the water tower still caught in the fog of previous centuries.

It would be nice to write that our little Barnabás goes tumbling after the birds. But he’s nearly blind and can’t see almost anything there, especially in that hazy, low morning winter light.

He runs for the pure joy of running.  The smells and texture of the snow.  Follows our voices calling to him from the distances when he’s gotten distracted by a trail.  O, Mornings of Pure & Innocent Happiness–you’re worth waking up for.





My New Year Hyacinth

29 01 2010





Old 5

28 01 2010

Sometimes when we drive back to Budapest from Szeged, we take the old 5 road, which winds from village to village all the way to the capital city. Until a few years ago, the old 5 road was one of the only ways to get to Budapest from southeastern Hungary. Trucks from Romania and Serbia, business travelers, tourists, all went along this long, rural road that spans over 100 miles.

At that time, the roads were lined with restaurants and taverns, hotels and guests houses, all to accommodate the traffic. It was a boost to the village economies, as any transportation hub is.

A strange mixture of bustle and rural. A certain traveling charm to it.

But then in April 2006, the last portion of the M5 motorway was finished, connecting Szeged to Röszke at the Serbian boarder, and in almost an instant, these hundred miles collapsed and depressed.

As if the little villages just went to sleep again.

Now when we drive through this old road, I can’t help be a little sad. On weekend mornings, you’ll see a cafe or bakery open, some people shuffling to the bus stop or vegetable stand. There seem, as always, to be a lot of old women with large bags and silk head coverings. As the famous Hungarian bard, József Attila wrote, The chatter/ of their teeth they give to the winter. On the outskirts of town, just beyond the limits, you’ll sometimes see prostitutes signaling for truckers, or even worse, the big British corporate grocery chains that have bullied their way into even the poorest villages.

These are the places that travel hosts do not come to. Because more and more it’s impossible to turn these stories into stories about redemption. The people here live hard lives. And really it could be anywhere in any country. Chicken near the cornfield, roosters pecking the lawn, and old cars rusting on cinder blocks in back yards is not specific to Hungary or Europe. It takes more than two hands to count how many places like this I’ve driven through in Georgia, or Indiana or Ohio.

Which I think is why, when the motorways are built, it’s important to not forget the places from which we have been diverted.





Donovaly

26 01 2010

As I mentioned last week, we spent a few days in Donovaly with our friends Szilvi and Meme.  Donovaly (Dóval in Hungarian) is a small, Slovakian village in the Banská Bystrica Region.  It’s located between the Veľká Fatra and Starohorské vrchy Mountains in the Low Tatras National Park, which lends itself naturally to a very popular ski resort.


The drive to Donovaly from Budapest takes about three hours.  There is some warranted criticisms about Donovaly that it is crowded and full of a too-posh crowd (or–not-friendly-to-Hungarians crowd–though we didn’t experience that attitude at all). And of course, it’s not Austria.  But for a three hour trip through mostly small villages, it’s a nice weekend ski resort.  You could, I would imagine, even just go for the day if you left early enough.  As you can see from the pictures, the weather was ghostly.  That gray haze from the ice and fog didn’t clear the entire trip.

We stayed at DamiSport right at the top of the blue slopes.  It is a 3-star hotel/restaurant/bar/ski rental/ski school.  And actually it was a very nice three-star establishment.  The rooms were lodge-inspired, though with modern shower and electronics amenities.  And free wireless Internet, which even certain five-star hotels don’t offer these days.  For less than 200 Euros we had lodging, breakfast, and dinner for 3 nights. They are also open in the summer and host the wild downhill biker crowd.

Since we are still learning, Donovaly was a good choice for us.  The blue slopes were high enough, though allowed us to spill out toward the untouched sides of the slopes and come down slowly as we practiced.

By the beginning of the week, the crowds weren’t as bad, which of course made it much easier for us.  And actually we did really well.  I can now confidently say that Györgyi  is just as hooked on snowboarding as I am.

Probably one of the best parts of the days spent on the mountain were the time we sat down in the powder to the very side of the slope and just looked into the haze.

As cold as it is out there, you can really work up a heat in all of the gear (since we’re still beginners, we were wearing FULL body armor, like snowboarding football players).  So it was nice to just sit down in the snow and listen to the sounds and look at the snow-logged pines.

And of course, we had some amazing meals and drinks in the most adorable little folk-lodge settings.

I was a big fan of the Urpiner beer, which was the local beer from that region in Slovakia.  Györgyi enjoyed 1 or 2 Becherovkas, which is a bitter made in Czech Republic.

And ONLY because we were getting so much exercise on the mountain, we decided to have a few rather rich meals.  The top selections were from a delicious lunch we had on the second (and third) day.  On the left–Chicken Paprikas with dumplings and cream.  And on the right, (I don’t know what it is officially called, so I will give it a name) dumplings’n cheese with fried bacon.  Seriously.

We had a wonderful time in Slovakia.  The pines were beautiful and the weekday slopes weren’t too crowded.  And for the price, it was really worth the trip there.  (But I hope it won’t be our last snowboarding trip this season.)





Slovakia

18 01 2010

We’re in Szlovakia for a few days on a short snowboarding adventure. The weather here is cold–about -6C and no sunshine, though the constant snow and fast slopes are invigorating. There are tall, amazing pines everywhere and they are pillowed by the most amazing white covering. Today I saw a man nordic-skiing UP the mountain.  Following close behind him was his little Jack Russel terrier. When they reached the top, the man skied down with the Jack following closely and happily behind. I am so happy to be back in this part of the world.





Last Day in Madrid (3 January 2010)

13 01 2010

I think that for most people the last day of a trip (no matter how long you’ve been in a place) is always the day to revisit favorites. While there is some rush to see what you’ve missed, there is almost always time to go back to what you loved the most.  Restaurants, bars, monuments, shops, etc. So while we already spent a late morning in Retiro Park, we went back on our last day, and while we can make coffee and steamed milk just about anywhere, we had to have one last Spanish café con leche.

We strolled for a little bit, looking at the street vendors’ wares before getting onto the city tour bus. You might think that these tourist buses only run during the nice weather.  And you would be wrong. Not only do they run all year long and in every kind of weather–they are ALWAYS packed. You may recall our experience last New Year’s Eve in Dublin:

My parents were lucky enough to sneak one of the “heated” outdoor seats, whereas Brian suffered mild hypothermia that was cured only by two or three Jamesons.

The rain was starting to drizzle down on top of the cold winds, and as you can see, I didn’t make any efforts to even try to get people’s heads out of the pictures. The French lady on the right (who was TOTALLY ROCKING that Paddington Bear hat) was quite inspirational in the way she dashed from seat to seat capturing shots. You should check out her blog. I’m sure there are some nice pictures of downtown Madrid.

I tried to get a shot of the castle, but then it started to rain so we went down to the inside of the bus where you can’t see anything except the city’s alleyways and crowds of people. But it was nice. We road around down there to get warm for about a half hour, before getting off for some coffee and churros.

We got onto the Route 2 bus, which had a covered top, and took the trip to and around new Madrid. When people ask me what I thought of Madrid, I use this as my example. The entire 30 minutes of that Route 2 tour was like this:

On your right you’ll see a bank.

On you’re left you’ll see a big bank.

On top of that hill there you’ll see what was once the fanciest bank in all the land.

This street is where the bankers used to live before they moved to banker street, which we will come to soon.

In front of us is statue park commissioned by and featuring bankers.

Madrid was nice.  But it was also a big, cosmopolitan metropolis. It felt like Europe, but that should be a given. I’m really happy and grateful to have been able to see Madrid, see the museums and sample some of the local cuisine.  I had a wonderful New Year’s, a holiday I usually hate and have been lucky enough to have two good ones in a row. And I am very much looking forward to our beach week in Marbella at the beginning of March. And maybe someday I’ll go back to Madrid–in a warmer month when the parks are blooming.

I guess that the more I travel, the more I realize how big the world is, and how much I still have to see.





Madrid Day 3 (2 January 2010)

11 01 2010

We started our third day in Madrid with a lovely walk through Jardines del Buen Retiro.

And we definitely weren’t the only ones.  The weather had improved slightly and it seemed like the whole city was out taking a stroll through the park.


The park dates back to the early 16th century and is the most popular park in Madrid.  There are beautiful fountains, sculptures and a little lake where you can rent row boats to cruise around.


Street theater, musicians, and admiring crowds were everywhere. Yes it was the beginning of January, but it was that morning that we got a hint of what Madrid must be like during the summer.


We could have stayed all afternoon and just enjoyed the weather and the slow pace of the park.  But we had to make our trip brief as we were heading to the Prado, which we knew would be packed with people.

While the line didn’t take us longer than 30 or 40 minutes to navigate, the museum itself was packed. The Prado is a lovely museum.  And we felt like we had to go because that’s one of the must-do things in Madrid and has one of the finest collections of European art in the world.  The Goyas were lovely and we had to laugh when we saw the collection of El Greco that we had seen in Budapest last winter.  And I think it was less our appreciation for 12th century art and more the crowds and empty stomachs that had us hurry through the museum.


We stopped for lunch at a little restaurant next to the museums.  It too was packed to the walls full of people ordering sandwiches, which seemed to be the 2p.m eating item.  I had the calamares sandwich, which seemed to be the most popular item, and Györgyi (who is no friend to “sea creatures” as she calls them) had a chicken sandwich of some kind.  Györgyi’s Spanish is quite good, so she was right in the mess of the crowd ordering our sandwiches and cokes.  Internet, have you had a regular Coke recently? A cold one from a can?  I know that everyone is on day 11 of resolutions, but just try one this month.  It’s a real miracle.

After lunch we went next door to the Reina Sofia museum, which houses the contemporary art and of course, Picasso’s Guernica, one of the 20th century’s most important paintings.

Now see, isn’t this a nice picture of the painting?  I pulled this off of a website from Stanford.  But I could have pulled it from the 30 million other websites that have it.  And why am I even telling you this, Internet?  It’s because while seeing Guernica was absolutely amazing, the experience was nearly ruined by all of the disrespectful JERKS who were trying to take a picture of it.  If you haven’t ever seen it, it’s a huge painting.  It was a mural, remember, for the world’s fair in Paris.  It’s the size of a whole wall.  And the three or four volunteers who were trying to guard it had to keep yelling at people Senor, Senora, no photos, no photos and run to block their shots.  And as soon as they turned around, the cameras were up and snapping again.  I just found it so disrespectful, honestly.  And either the teacher in me or the fact that I am my mother’s daughter came out and I determined that if I were in charge of that exhibit I would have just  SHUT. IT. DOWN.  Or fine people.  But as soon as the desire crept up in me to start slapping cameras out of peoples hands, I decided it was time to leave.  Sigh.  I’ve been waiting a whole week to get that off my chest.  Thank you, Internet.


After the museum, we walked around town a bit more, trying to explore neighborhoods that we hadn’t seen due to the days of rain.  We walked up a few side streets and found another little plaza that was starting to bustle with people.  As we walked, we spotted an open window table in a small taberna and decided to sit down for some tapas and a few drinks.

I had the house beer and Györgyi had a sangria while we decided what little bites we wanted.


Olives, shrimp, calamari.  Fresh, simple and delicious food.  It’s what Spain is known for, and in the reputation did not disappoint. Györgyi ate and even liked the shrimp, even with their little dead eyeballs staring at her!

We lingered for a while, had a few drinks and talked, before heading out into the night to a long walk back to the hotel.


The lights in the city center were absolutely beautiful.  I didn’t even mind the mass of traffic and people walking around because it seemed like everyone was also out to enjoy the rain-free night and holiday lights.

Castles, sculptures and potato chip vendors.

And children playing in the lights of a map of Christopher Columbus’ conquests.

And because it was our last night in Madrid, and we couldn’t leave without one last indulgence:

Flan!  The perfect end to a marathon day and night in Madrid.





Madrid Day 2 (1 January 2010)

8 01 2010

Day two we finally got a break from the constant rain and we were quick to make our way to the center of town to take some pictures, eat some food, and see some sites in the Spanish capital.

The Metro system in Madrid was very nice.  The lines that we took around town were clean, efficient and we never waited for more than 5 minutes for a train.  Even on Sunday.  On New Year’s Day we headed to the The Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun) which is one of the most famous spots in Madrid and home of Spain’s km 0. I loved the Tío Pepe sign.

We waited for a few other people to snap their pictures, before getting one with Györgyi and the Bear and the Madroño Tree, which is the symbol of Madrid.  It was gated off, which I don’t think it is usually, but the night before the big New Year’s Eve celebration was held in that square and probably they wanted to protect it from the revelers.

The plaza was packed.  Seriously packed with tourists, despite the cloud cover and occasional spitting rain.  Everyone was out shopping and eating, which seems to be the most popular activities in Madrid.  I’m not complaining.


The area was a really interesting blend of tourism, modern Spain, Old Europe buildings and of course European classics: Loaves upon loaves of bread being delivered to alleyway shops.


When we saw the bread we knew it was a sign to start looking for something to eat for lunch.  And it seems everyone else had the same idea because every little joint and tapas bar that we went into was packed.  I took these pictures in a butchery/sandwich shop/tapas bar.  There is something so beautiful about this meat.  I’m not a really serious meat-eater, but the rows of these drying hung hams were just inspiring!  I also adore the Spanish food culture.  Especially the small-bites mentality.  A few little lunch items, a small beer or wine, and then a walk (or nap) before going back out for an evening stroll and late dinner.

We sat down at Taberna Hambra.  For you Spanish-speakers, you can see the menu options. The prices (in Euros) were pretty standard for most of the tabernas in town.


So.  From the top left.  The free bread for the table.  Györgyi was particularly amazed by this gratis bread, especially since free anything is practically unheard of in Hungary.  (When the server at El Campensino in America refilled our tortilla chips and salsa she looked as if she had seen the face of God.)  So, bread.  We both split/tasted the Tortilla Espanola, which was essentially a large cake of potato, onion, cheese and egg.  Very very delicious.  I had the paella, which was so wonderful, and one of the two things I wanted to eat in Madrid. Saffron flavored goodness with shrimp, mussels, clams and squid.  And finally Györgyi had an empanada with tuna.

As afternoon dragged toward evening we walked through town and down the Grand Via.  The sun was trying her hardest, but eventually the clouds wandered back into the city center so we headed to our hotel to rest before dinner.

As we walked to dinner, we passed the monument for Christopher Columbus.  The light that evening was incredible.  And despite the on and off again rain, people were really out and walking everywhere.  This is a ritual throughout Europe, and one that I wish Americans would adopt.  It’s relaxing, not to mention good for health.

We didn’t stay out much later than to eat dinner, though we did catch the sunset around the fountains before we ate.  I always have a much harder time adjusting to the jet lag coming back to Europe than going to America, especially because I can’t sleep on the plane.  So we went back to the hotel a little earlier than usual to rest.


The way back was lit by all of the holiday lights.  Each street in our neighborhood had a different set of lights running from end to end.  Not only was it beautiful, but it made figuring out the streets very easy, especially at night.

It was a nice and restful way to spend New Year’s day.  We were fully prepared for the following day and our marathon of museums and tapas.





The Great Barnabás Returns

8 01 2010