Horvátország

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I knew that it was going to be a busy summer, but now that it’s here, it seems to already be flying by.  Tomorrow we’re leaving for Horvátország, which is Croatia in Hungarian.  Croatia (in Croatian) is Hrvatska and it’s one of the most beautiful destinations in Southeastern Europe.  National forrests, unspoiled lakes, hundreds of quaint islands on the sea with ancient limestone lighthouses at the helm, it’s flies under the radar for most Americans as being somewhere over there, and I’m really glad that we’re going to be exploring it for the weekend.

Plitvice Waterfalls

We’re going to Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site and quite close to the border of Bosnia and Herzegovenia.  There are sixteen lakes, formed from runoff of the Lička Plješivica mountains.  I’ll give a more detailed description of the park and the region when I return on Monday, hopefully with some good pictures to illustrate.

Now I have to pack, make little bags of trail mix, and hang laundry if I want it dried before tomorrow morning.  Today is Barnabás’ nameday, which I learned at about 5am when Györgyi was whispering the name day song to him and feeding him Austrian dog chocolate.  (That is to say before you send off your weekly emails to me with the subject line YOU’RE KILLING HIM! YOU’RE KILLING HIM!– please direct them to Györgyi instead this week.)  But he’s going to have a good weekend too.  We took him to Anna who runs a ranch with her husband on the edge of town  They have horses and farm animals and other dogs, though we just learned that even with all of the animal friends, Barnabás opts to sleep inside, on their bed, with them.

Have a nice weekend, Internet.  Hope June is as bright for you wherever you are as it is here in the Buda.

Detours in Translation

So, I’ve been doing a little bit better with my Hungarian, though this really only means that I can understand a lot now and can still only communicate the basics.  The good news is that I’m not buzzing around quite as far a field during conversations, and I can practically get all of the Monika show (the Hungarian Jerry Springer) and the morning entertainment news with anchors who are Olympic gold medal wrestlers and former Miss Universes .  I suppose it’s like how immigrants to America learn English by watching Law & Order Criminal Intent and So You Think You Can Dance?  And like them I know the penal codes, general taunts and verbose displays of overconfidence.

Sometimes I forget that Györgyi is not a native English speaker.  And because I’m so used to her accent—the first giveaway, I’m only caught off guard when she uses prepositions funny or her odd collection of not-quite-right English sayings.  They’re always hilarious, though, and I can only hope that sometime I can master the same artful inconsistencies in Hungarian.  My favorite of her more colorful mistakes:

Going with the Flow = Floating with the Flood.

If you know any Hungarian, you’ll know how classically Hungarian this mistake is.

For Christmas one of the presents I got her was an urban dictionary, because I felt like, you know what, might as well throw her right into the deep water with some new English.  This has been a hilarious experiment in diction, trust me.

She recently sent me this message in response to a weekend plan idea:

“That would be great, for shizzley.”

And always one to help in such matters, I replied:

“Györgyi, the root phrase is: for shizzle.  Unfortunately it is irregular.  You can say for sheezey, which is what I believe you meant, but you must drop the L.  Don’t get discouraged.  It is very complex.”

Isn’t language brilliant?

István Örkény

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I adore writers who utilize the absurd and grotesque,  really for whatever reason.  Adore O’Connell.  Adore Faulkner.  And now, I’ve found a Hungarian writer with similar leanings: István Örkény.

Örkény was born in 1912 and initially went into chemistry as a profession, earning several degrees in the field.  Because he was a Jew, he suffered the same awful fate that most Hungarian Jews did, he was sent to a forced-labor unit near Moscow, though was able to return to Budapest after the war.  After the failed revolution in 1956 until 1960, he was forbidden from publishing anything because it was seen as political insurrection.  After 1960 and until his death in 1979, he became very popular for his stories, especially his one-minute short stories for their absurd and grotesque criticism of the time.

In the introduction to his English translation of One-Minute Stories, Andrew Riemer writes, “Örkény was born in 1912, during the last days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  By the time of his death in 1979 he would have experienced a brief but bloody Bolshevik uprising, a right-wing totalitarian regime…, which was followed , with only a brief interlude, by a succession of brutal strongmen answering to Moscow’s bidding.  He lived through the futile uprising of 1956 and also, in the years before his death in 1979, the emergence of a mire benign ‘goulash socialism’ that paved the way for the bloodless revolution of 1989 which brought Communism to an end.”

I really love this collection.  It’s with this Eastern European (if not uniquely Hungarian) experience, that Örkény set out his anecdotal and often critical observations onto the page.  Some are tongue-in-cheek, some are pure comedic, and others are direct social criticism as expressed through the pointedly grotesque.  The stories are widely popular in Hungary, and Örkény is still recognized as one of the masters of this genre.

I’ve been seeking out Hungarian writers since I’ve arrived, and haven’t done the best job of finding what I’ve been looking for (namely contemporary women poets), but these stories have been a pleasant surprise.  With respect to the writer, who called these stories stories, I won’t go into too much theorizing about how I think a lot of these confuse the boundaries between flash fiction and prose poetry, but since I’ve been away from the classroom for a year now, I think I’ll relish in this little theory discovery.  And I’ll leave you with one of the stories that I find to be the most lovely.

the grotesque
(a practical approach)
Stand with your legs apart.  Bend forward.  Look back between your legs.  Thank you.

 

Now look around you and take stock of what you see.  The world has been stood on its head.  The gentlemen’s feet beat about in the air while the ladies, see how they grab for their skirts?  The cars, too: their four tires are spinning in the air, looking for all the world like a dog trying to scratch its stomach.  Then there’s the chrysanthemum, its thin jack-in-the-box stem reaching for the sky as it balances precariously on its head – and the express train speeding along on top of its trail of smoke.

To the left, the parish church stands balanced on the tips of the lightning rods sticking out of its twin steeples.  And over there is a sign on the window of a pub:

[sign upside down] FRESH BEER ON TAP!

Inside, a customer, his head to the floor, staggers laboriously from the counter, holding a mug of beer in his hand.  Do notice the order, though the foam is at the bottom, the beer is on the top, and the bottom of the mug is on top of the beer.  Yet not a drop is spilled.

Is it winter?  You bet your life!  Just look at the snowflakes as they flutter up, and the skaters as they zigzag in pairs, dangling from the icy mirror of the sky.  Not an easy sport, skating!

However, let us look for a merrier spectacle.  Ah, there!  A funeral!  Amidst the snowflakes falling up, through the veil of tears trickling the other way around, we can see the gravediggers haul the coffin up with two hefty ropes.  The colleagues, friends and relations of the deceased, both near and far, his window and three orphans, all grab some clods of earth and begin pelting the coffin.  Let us recall the heartrending sound as the clods of earth are flung into a grave, knock against the coffin and break into tiny little pieces.  The grieving window sobs.  The poor fatherless orphans wail.

How different it feels to throw things up!  How much more dexterity it takes to hit the coffin!  To start with, you need quality clods, otherwise they disintegrate halfway up.  So there is much grabbing, shoving and running helter-skelter to retrieve the most compact pieces.  But a good clod of earth is not enough.  Badly aimed, it falls back down and if it should hit somebody, especially a rich, distinguished relative, there is no escaping the titter of delight that follows.  However, if all goes well and the clod of earth is firm and compact, the aim is accurate and on the mark, the man who flung it is applauded, and everyone goes home feeling happy.  For days to come people talk about the perfect aim, the charming deceased, and the amusing ceremony, how splendid it turned out, and they do so with no trace of hypocrisy, feigned lamentation or pretense at sympathy.

And now, you may straighten up.  As you see, the world is on its feet again, and you are at liberty to mourn your dearly departed with all the tears and dignity you can muster.

Elég

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Elections have been underway for the new European Parliament.  People (approximately 375 million) from twenty-seven countries have or will vote soon, and tomorrow Hungarians will go to the polls to elect their 22 MEPs.

Compared to our neighbors, Hungarians seem pretty interested in the elections.  According to the Central European Opinion Research Group poll, 60% of Hungarians claim they will “certainly” vote tomorrow, compared to people in Poland, Slovakia, and Czech Republic, who are in the 40% range.

On a slightly troubling note, after the socialists, a radical party of far right nationalists led strangely by woman who has been linked to anti-Semitism and anti-Roma violence has been gaining ground.  They will most likely win a seat in the EU parliament.  I won’t say anymore about her because I don’t know enough, plus when looking up info about her and her politics I read the SINGLE MOST SEXIST article in the British Telegraph I have ever read in my life about a woman politician.  For all of you language gurus out there, take a look at this little gem.

As an outsider I don’t know exactly how to make sense of it, probably in much of the same way a non-American would try to digest our election madness.  What I do know is that a lot of Hungarians are really unhappy.  As I see it, the people are  trapped between the old and new system.  Unlike some neighbors (Poland immediately comes to mind) that have taken to a “western-system” much more smoothly in the last twenty years, Hungarians haven’t quite turned it around.  It’s not the people’s fault, but the government that has instituted a system, which finds Hungarians paying some of the highest taxes in all of Europe yet receiving the least amount of social and economic benefits.  The system is broken.

Here are some of the political ads:

The first is from the SZDSZ party.  They are the free democratic party or the liberal party and draw support from liberal intellectuals and entrepreneurs, though are still in the minority:

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Their ad reads “Who will be the third power?”.  You can see in the poster three “regular” guys, democrats, including the one on the bottom left who is the famous Hungarian footballer, Ferenc Puskás, and then the extreme far right guy.  This ad is attacking the far right party, Jobbik, who actually will gain a seat in the parliament, rather than the liberals.  Oh well.  Sorry average guy.

The next ad is from Jobbik, who are the extreme right-wing group gaining a lot of attention recently.  Their name stands for a “movement for a better Hungary”, which of course means the following:  stopping the massive immigration of groups unfit for social assimilation,  compulsory instruction of ethics and religion in elementary and secondary schools, proclaiming the Árpád-striped flag as an all-Hungarian symbol, setting up a special organisational unit within the police force to prevent gipsy crime, and establishing a National Guard organised on a voluntary basis of regional defence.

The text means “We will grow up.  We will get stronger.”  eeek!

Just recently, Jobbik’s sloga “Hungary belongs to the Hungarians” was deamed unconstitutional.  There’s a lot of history that goes into this one, and I’ll have to address it at another time.  Or you can refer back to here or here.

The third ad is from FIDESZ, the large conservative party, which will most likely take over after the next elections and whose leader, Viktor Orbán, said today that the EU elections will RESOUND LIKE THUNDER against the the socialists.  It’s getting exciting now!

The text means:  Elég:  Enough!  &  Szavazz:  Vote!

So there you go.  We’ll see what happens tomorrow.

Csirke Paprikás

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Chicken Paprikas is for many people a meal of childhood (regardless of the country you were raised in).  It certainly is true for my childhood.  Despite my father’s general dislike for sour cream, a clear indication he has NO Eastern European genes, my mother and grandmother made chicken paprikas frequently for our family.

If you didn’t know already, paprikas is the Hungarian word for pepper.  Hungarian paprika is probably the best in the world, and the paprika from the Hungarian Great Plain is of the highest quality.  It ranges from sweet and mild to extremely hot.  Though it is one of the foremost symbols of Hungarian cuisine (you can see strings of drying paprika on almost every street corner and market), it was actually brought to Hungary by the Turks.  Regardless, it is central to Hungarian cooking.  It was paprika, after all, which led the Hungarian scientist Albert Szent-Györgyi to discover and extract vitamin C, for which he was awarded the Nobel Prize.  And this is all to say that when you make Chicken Paprikas, use Hungarian paprika.

Click here to download and print recipe

Now, let’s get started.

Györgyi, please introduce the recipe:

INGREDIENTS:

IGNORE POTATOES.  They felt left out so I let them be in the picture, but they are NOT part of the recipe

IGNORE POTATOES. They felt left out so I let them be in the picture, but they are NOT part of the chicken paprikas recipe

10 Chicken Thighs
2 small onions
2 tomatoes
2 sweet peppers
1 hot pepper (optional)
8 oz sour cream
2 Tbs flour
2 Tbs Hungarian paprika
½ Tbs cumin
Salt & pepper (to taste)

METHOD:

1.  Clean chicken by trimming some fat but leaving the skin.  If you want to make a healthier version of the recipe, you can use boneless, skinless chicken breasts, but the seven founding Magyar kings will be rolling over in their graves.  They may haunt you, actually.  Just make it with dark meat and bones and skin.  You can work out extra tomorrow morning

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2.  Chop onions, tomatoes, and peppers

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3.  Add a tablespoon of vegetable to a large pot and heat on medium-high.  Add the chopped vegetables to the pot and sauté until translucent (3-5 minutes)

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4.  REMOVE POT FROM HEAT (paprika burns.  The taste of burned paprika is not a pleasant one.)

5.  Add 2 Tbs of Hungarian paprika, ½ Tbs cumin, salt and pepper to the pot and stir until all of the vegetables are coated

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6.  While the pot is still removed from the heat, add the chicken to the pot and stir until the chicken is coated with the vegetables and paprika

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7.  Add enough water just to cover chicken

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8.  RETURN POT TO HEAT and cover with lid

9.  Cook for 1 hour on medium to medium-low heat

10.  In a separate container, mix together 8oz of sour cream and two tablespoons of flour.

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11.  REMOVE POT FROM HEAT

12.  Add the sour cream/flour mixture to the pot and stir.

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13.  Cook for an additional 5 minutes.

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14.  Serve with dumplings, noodles, potatoes, bread or nothing at all.  ENJOY!

Note:  As you can see from my plate, that Györgyi took the chicken off the bone for me and made mine kind of saucy, but only because I like it that way and that’s how I ate it as a kid.  She would eat it with the chicken on the bone, very little sauce, and served with a side of dumplings.  It’s your preference, people!  That’s the beauty here!

Our Monthly Trip to the Vet

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Who knows what a foxtail is?  If you guessed a hordeum murinum disarticulating spikelet cluster, you’ve almost got it.  But if you guessed the two-inch bunch of hard-speared and piercingly sharp dead grass diaspore that lodged itself into our cocker spaniel’s right ear canal this morning, you’d be right on.

So we had a good run along the river this morning, and then an even more pleasant walk through the district for bread and veggies afterward.  Everything seemed so peaceful when we returned to the flat, had some coffee and cheerios and settled in to start the day around 7am.  Györgyi was just out the door, and miraculously on time for her first intensive Spanish language class at the office.

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Suddenly  Barnabás leapt onto the couch and started to scream.  Now from a dog who barely barks and only sometimes howls at the tone of a rotary phone, hearing him make this noise was completely shocking.  He was furiously scratching at his ear, running room to room, crying and screaming, crying and whimpering.  We held him down on his side and shined a light inside of his ear, but couldn’t see anything.  Then, I noticed on the floor by the couch the enemy of long haired and long eared dogs everywhere–a small little foxtail.  Oh no.

And so we had to wait a painful 90 minutes and he paced and scratched and cried before being able to take him to the vet, Dr. Gerszi Kornél, who is fortunately just three blocks from here.

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Barnabás was irritated to say the least.  It took both Györgyi and I the full force of our strength to hold him down, and eventually the doc had to give him TWO shots of sedative so that he was finally calm enough/sleeping to examine the deep inner ear.  He pulled cotton swab after cotton swab out of his ear but still could only see a little poking white spear.  Then, with one final pull he brought it up.  The foxtail.  He exclaimed hoppá which is like oh my or maybe something a little stronger.  We were all a little shocked by how big it was.

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It’s a good lesson. Barnabás is quite injury prone and always walks and plays hard, just like a little boy.  But after glass in the paw, the many ticks, the broken foot, the strained tendon, and now this latest injury, we’re going to have to be more vigilant with him.

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I carried him home from the vet and he was just dead weight in my arms.  His lips and tongue and ears flopped over the side of my right forearm.  I mean he really looked dead.  A few of the old ladies in the building we very concerned, but Györgyi reassured them that he’s going to be fine.  I hate to suspect it, but probably he is always going to be a little bit wild, a little bit accident prone.  Of course this is one of the reasons why we hopelessly adore him.  And also why our next dog is going to be a goldfish.

Makó

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By Thursday night my monster case of strep spread to my other tonsil, thus requiring another trip to the doctor.  Luckily we were already in Szeged, and about thirty-five minutes from the little town of Makó where one of Györgyi’s friend’s mother, Mária, has an office and was able to squeeze me in for an extremely generous appointment and prescription for another antibiotic.  Despite the massively daunting and pungently infuriating post-soviet socialist bureaucracies that are still widespread in Hungary (though still not rivaling those in the USA), I have been consistently amazed by the kindness of strangers here, people who have helped me along the way.  I am so grateful to Dr. Mária for curing me, especially because there probably aren’t many things worse than being really sick while away from your home country and, of course, your mom.

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Makó, Hungary is a really cutsie little town, like just about every little town in Hungary.  It is on the Maros River, just a stone’s throw from the Romanian boarder, and like Szeged, is one of the sunniest places in Central Europe.  I’ve been hearing about Makó ever since I arrived because the company Györgyi works for is attempting to recover natural gas from the Makó Trough, which could hold one of Europe’s largest natural gas fields.

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In addition to the sunshine, Makó is known for its onion and garlic productions, and as being the birthplace of famous American journalist, Joseph Pulitzer, whose father was a well-known grain merchant in the region.

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I’m not sure if it is a failure of western geographical education, or the general silence of 20th century Eastern European immigrants to the US regarding their home countries, or maybe just the remnants of bad soviet-era stereotypes, but I don’t think anyone who didn’t already know much about Hungary would ever imagine just how charming the small towns are.  It’s a shame, really, because not only are the towns charming and simply pretty, they are filled with an air of quietness and stillness and calm that is missing in so many other places.  It sounds melodramatic, but these little towns are good for a peaceful heart.  I know I always feel better after visiting.  And that’s not just the antibiotic in me talking.