Second Hungarian Thanksgiving

25 11 2009

Well, here we go:  so I just got off the phone with Mihályi Györgyi who has informed me that SHE FOUND A TURKEY!  Of course I was ecstatic to hear this news because it is NOT easy to find turkey in this country.  Chicken?  Of course.  Goose?  No problem Christmas-loving ex-pat Brits!  Duck?  They’re practically quacking out of stores here.  But not whole turkey.  So…ecstatic.

But, she said, you’re going to need to measure the oven.

Why? I inquired.

Well…

The smallest turkey she could find is 17.6 pounds.

Unfortunately, our oven is actually not big enough to fit that size of a turkey.  This is Europe.  They don’t cook in those sizes.  And for two people and one pig, I mean dog, it might be a little bit too much.  And I don’t think it’s safe to tape an oven door shut or to let the top of the turkey touch the heating coils of the oven for 5 hours.  Is it?

But she’s still hunting around, so maybe we’ll find one by tonight so I can execute the homemade brine and other preparations.

Also, Györgyi has to work tomorrow.  She has to do a press event at a well-site about 1.5 hours away from here.  But I’m trying to hold my little American head high.  My Mom sent me great starts– cranberries, stuffing, and two gourd salt and pepper shakers.  And tomorrow I’m going to start cooking so that we can eat together on Friday.  One day late isn’t a big deal.  Plus my 20 pound turkey monster will take the night to brine and a significant amount of time to cook!  And there’s always football on ESPN America.

(I realize these pictures don’t have anything to do with my post.  But they’re calming.)

Yesterday I went to the big grocery store and bought almost everything on my list.  Györgyi arranged for a messenger to find and deliver corn syrup.  I don’t know how she does these things, but I always imagine that she has some connections from left over cold-war smuggling mafias or something.  But I. DON’T. CARE.  Because at least I will be able to make my pecan pie.

In order to not feel too bummed out for not being able to celebrate a traditional, American thanksgiving, I’ve decided to construct a (perhaps) unattainable menu.  The stress of making the food will give me a good excuse to start drinking wine around noon.  Most of my recipes are adapted from Pioneer Woman, Ree Drummond, who is, without a doubt, my cooking (and maybe life?) hero.  Here’s my menu:

Baked brie w/ french herb cheese
Spicy Pumpkin Soup
Turkey (brine)
Whiskey Glazed Carrots
Fresh Corn and Wild Rice
Spanish Green Beans
Mashed Potatoes
Stovetop Stuffing (Don’t abandon me now, foodies, I need a shortcut.  My Hungarian oven may not survive this meal.)
Cranberries
Pecan Pie

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you lovely readers and your families and your pigs.  No matter where you are in the world, in America or abroad, no matter if you have to work or if you’re cooking alone or for only yourself.  If the only reason you are preparing Thanksgiving dinner is (like Jerry Seinfeld) to drug your girlfriend with red wine and turkey so that you can play with her old, collectible, toys, Happy Thanksgiving to you too.  Happy Thanksgiving.  Happy Harvest.  And have a little fun and a little love tomorrow.





The Long Fog

23 11 2009

I think that I wrote a few days ago about the fog that has been hanging its thin, gray curtain over Hungary for the last week or more.  It seems to have lifted today, but this past weekend, while driving through the small southern villages, the fog seemed to take me to an entirely different century.

As if caught in a dream when you realize you might be dreaming but can’t quite wake yourself up.  I suppose it’s a feeling more than any visual image.  But that’s how the fog has affected me the last ten days or so.  The mornings arrived and in the distance there seemed to be some sense of light, but only as if on the water and a storm was approaching.  And at night, the moon barely made an appearance.  When it did, it was only as a hint of itself barely dazzling a strip of light on wanting rooftops.

This week is Thanksgiving, but also, here, it’s not.  So unlike my parents who are anxiously preparing to fly down to Dataw Island for family Thanksgiving, I’ll be here just a little bit homesick.  I have a lot of pictures to sort through from the last week and weekend, and also a lot of stories to recount of more exciting activities.  But something about that old woman in the fog was, I don’t know, familiar.  Perhaps it was the stupid, American image I had of Hungary before I came here.  Before I learned that it wasn’t all old women on worn-torn dirt roads, inched by hunches, surrounded by fog.  But then this weekend it was exactly that.  And I had to post this before I could get on with the rest.





Horse Evolution

16 11 2009

white horse

Last weekend we went to see the Horse Evolution show.  It was at the Expo center, and along with our show tickets we were able to see the equestrian exhibition and the snowboarding exhibition next door!  Of all of the shows I have seen in my life, this was, perhaps, the highest on the geek scale.  But it was really spectacular.  And I don’t really know how to describe it.  I will include some youtube videos of the show to give you a better idea of what we saw.  Here is the advertisement for the show:

There are 36 horses in the show, all at the highest levels of training in dressage and other formal skills.

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There were acrobatic routines and dancing (even the horses could tap dance and bow).

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Among other breeds, there were some of the finest Hungarian Arabian horses in the show.  More impressively, the event showcased the Hungarian style of horsemanship, which as I’ve written about several times, and is a long and proud tradition here.  And honestly I don’t know why but when the single white horse was running around I got a little teary.  It was just really beautiful.

The show runs throughout the year across Europe, so if you’re ever in the area, and have a particular love for horses or horse shows, I would definitely recommend checking it out.





A Hungarian Halloween

10 11 2009

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We had a little Halloween party two Saturday nights ago for a few friends and it was so much fun.  Halloween has always been my favorite holiday.  I’m not sure why.  The colors, the parties, the dog costumes!  It’s a little harder to find Halloween party supplies here, because the holiday is just catching on, but we were able to make due.

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I made some cupcakes and we dressed Barnsie up as a little old Hungarian lady, though he wouldn’t keep the hat on.  Next year I have to order him a costume earlier, because we couldn’t find any two or three weeks leading up to the party.

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We bought a few pumpkins for carving (it was Szilvi’s first time) and a few Haloweenie plates and covers.  And of course some American candy from the local specialty food store.  Peanut butter cups, Oreos, etc.

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We played quite a lot of Wii, ate some brie, stuffed mushrooms, fancy salad, drank wine and champagne, and just generally had a nice little Halloween.  I burned my batch of homemade Chex Mix before everyone arrived, which I was really bummed about.  But luckily Gyorgyi bought a wheel of brie the size of a truck tire, so I think everyone had enough.  And of course Barnabas went wherever the food and pets were.  He was so exhausted he slept almost the entire next day without waking up.

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The next day, Szilvi and Erika joined forces (with Barnabas of course) to make us an amazing early lunch.  All I know is that it involved chicken and cream and cheese.  I had a great time and I feel really grateful to have fun friends to help celebrate these silly American holidays.  I always feel so much at home in these moments.





Medicenter Szeged

5 11 2009

Before I left America for Hungary, just about everyone I talked to had a cautionary tale of horror related to the Central/Eastern European medical experience.  None, of course, had ever had any Central/Eastern European medical experiences, but everyone has an uncle, who has a friend who has a friend…  And the friend is always missing an eye now, because of it.  Even on ex-pat websites in Hungary, these socialized systems are easy to make fun of, at the expense of  hard-working professionals who are sometimes on the bad side of a difficult-to-maneuver system.

Ever since arriving in Hungary, I’ve had a completely opposite experience.  A kind and intelligent private doctor who has given me quick access to my allergy medication and an anti-biotic for my awful strep throat last year.  And just recently, a trip to a private clinic for a complete physical workup, with procedures that I would never have gotten, nor have been able to ever afford, in America.  Full disclose:  where I went was a private clinic.  So you pay for it out of pocket, and it is not part of the free, socialized health care system.  And of course no, not everyone can afford it. But in this lovely clinic staffed by perhaps some of the finest doctors in Hungary, the entire of the procedures (including consultations, blood work, ultra sounds, physical analyses, vaccinations, and other procedures that I’m having a hard time even remembering from that day) was around 300 dollars.  I’ll wait here for a second, Internet, until you get back into your chair.

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Here is a breakdown of my experience:

Everything was arranged by the super-organizing-genius Varga Szilvi.

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I don’t know what Szilvi eats in the morning, or what she puts in her coffee, but I desperately need to get my hands on some of it.  When we arrived in Szeged at the Medicenter, she was standing in the lobby and ready to immediately take us to the first doctor.  She was smartly dressed and kind of sassy and I felt like I had my own personal attaché for my physical, even though she seemingly was helping everyone around in this way.  In addition, when the day was almost over, and because I couldn’t eat for my stomach ultrasound, she went out and bought me a little spread of sweet and savory biscuits, which she put on a plate in the little lounge for me.  It was the sweetest thing anyone has ever done for me at a doctor’s office.  Anyway, I never personally address people on this blog, but honestly, thank you Szilvi, you made my day totally easy and manageable, and I can say that my experience at your clinic was truly the best medical care that I’ve ever received.

In the morning I received two vaccinations for H1N1 and the regular flu shot.  It took about five minutes and was administered by the vaccination doctor.  After the vaccinations I went right downstairs to have my blood drawn by Dr. Kóczián Zsófia, who both did the drawing and analyzed it for me that day, so that when I had my other consultations in the evening, the blood work was ready.

At about 10:30, I left the Medicenter building and went across town to the public clinic so that I could get chest x-rays there.  And let me tell you about the HORRORS of the public, socialized public health care clinic… I waited in the waiting room for about 8 minutes, was called into the x-ray room, the nurse said two words “bra off”, the x-ray was taken, processed, and we were out of there in about 20 minutes.  Yes, I see now what these Republicans (and Lieberman) want us to fear.  TWENTY MINUTES.

Then it was time for a little early lunch.  All of my fears about the whole thing, I realized at this point, were really unfounded, and it made the rest of the day much more eye opening.  I wish I had taken pictures of the doctors, but you know, after you get a pap your first instinct isn’t to whip out your camera for a candid.

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When I got back to Medicenter, I had another round of consultations and procedures.  The first was with Dr. Halmai László who is the Cardiologist.  We chatted for a little bit, he did a few exams and went over what he saw in my EKG and my blood work.  Then he did an ultrasound on me to look at my heart, all the while asking me some questions about my writing life and telling me about a friend he met from America who also teaches writing.  He was so friendly and knowledgeable and I really felt at ease.

Then I was sent to the next room to see Dr. Vass Gábor, the ear, nose, and throat doc. We talked about a few of my allergy problems, he did a thorough exam, told me to stop using Q-tips because they’re bad for me, killed a little ear wax, and told me that my septum was a little deviated.  Tennis injury!  Again, like all of the doctors that I met that day, he was friendly, chatty, and knowledgeable.

Back to the ultrasound room to meet with Dr. Hoffmann Csilla.  I had met Dr. Hoffmann the previous week because she did a breast ultrasound on me.  This day, however, she did my stomach ultrasound to check my internal organs and such.  Her secondary language is French, but she spoke English quite well.  I only needed Györgyi to translate one time after Dr. Hoffman said that I had sand in my kidney and I immediately thought about the big wave that knocked me down two years ago in Hilton Head.  Of course what she meant was just some buildup in my kidney that I needed to wash out and prevent from becoming a kidney stone.  Anyway Dr. Hoffman was awesome.  She was especially calming the week before and I really appreciated it.  She also told me I don’t have to give up coffee, so she’s totally rad in my book now.

One last exam before my final consultation:  Gyno! Dr. Nyirati Ildikó is the Gynecologist and she did the usual exam plus an ultrasound. She said I had nice ovaries, so I was really feeling good about myself at that point.  I looked at them too, on the ultrasound.  I’ve never seen the inside of my body except the pictures of my knee surgery that made me vomit.  But the inside is such a wonderland, isn’t it?  Anyway Dr. Nyirati was so friendly and soft spoken and gentle, which of course are fabulous traits to have as a doctor, but especially a Gynecologist.

The final consultation of the day was with the surgeon Dr. Szabó István.  He was the cutest thing since sliced kolacs, seriously.  His job was to go over all of my results for the day, and then he did a few additional tests to check my veins and everything.  He really made me feel at east and comfortable and told me practical, understandable things about health and the body and everything.

The morning procedures lasted about 1 hour, including two tests and one chest x-ray at a different location.  The afternoon tests, procedures, and consultations, lasted a total of about 2 ½ hours.  All of the doctors were absolute experts in their fields, spoke English well, and didn’t make me feel like I was wasting their time or that they had other patients they wanted to shuffle me past to see.  Some of the doctors even came in especially for these consultations, on their days off.  And why?  Well I can tell you one thing, it’s not because they’re making the big bucks.  It does seem, however, that they actually care about taking care of people.  And the nurses too, were incredibly kind.  The nurses who, by the way, are going on strike this week, because they only make 90,000 HUF per month.  That is insultingly low money (about 450 dollars).

I’m not trying to make any political statement here or get people up in arms about the American health care system.  The people who read this blog, for the most part, are like-minded people on this issue.  The only ones who are significantly out of touch with reality seems to be the tea-bagging conservatives who use fear scare tactics about “Comrade” Obama’s health care system, with the reality is much different.  But this post doesn’t really have to do with any of that.  All it will serve as, hopefully, is a counter argument to your uncle’s friend’s friend who is missing an eye from a medical procedure in Eastern Europe.

And a nagyon nagyon köszönöm szépen, for all of the doctors and staff members of Medicenter who gave me excellent medical care and treated me with respect while doing it.





Salzburg, Day 3

3 11 2009

Salzburg early Sunday morning

Sunday morning we were set to leave Salzburg early, so we woke up around 6 and got ready to leave.  Then we saw the mountains in the distance from our hotel room window and decided that we would have to go back into Old Town for some final pictures.  We hadn’t gotten many sunny pictures, nor pictures without too many people, so it was a good decision that we went.  We ended up leaving around noon, after another round of chestnuts, cappuccino and an absolutely wonderful silent stroll around town.  Oh yeah, and this hat:

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I’m putting the Sunday pictures into the following slideshow because there were just too many pictures I wanted to include.  It’s been fun looking back on this trip.  It was one of the most charming places I’ve been to in Europe and I hope anyone traveling in the region will consider visiting.  And I can’t wait to go back with my parents this summer.  Sound of music with my mom and abbey beer with my dad!  Definitely something to look forward to.





Halloween

2 11 2009

We had a fabulous Halloween this year.  The trees a on Margit Island are almost completely turned and even though it’s cold, the sun has been pretty strong for the past few days.  I know I’m behind on posting, and I still have some Salzburg pics to post and of course all of the pictures and fun from our Halloween party on Saturday.  I’ve been suddenly (& luckily) inundated with freelance writing work, but posting will be more plentiful this week.  Just like this beautiful season!

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