Monthly Archives: April 2010

Ecseri Piac

Posted on by
8

Ecseri Piac (market), located in Budapest’s 19th district, is one of the largest outdoor flea markets in Eastern Europe. It is bric-a-brac and kitsch galore, and I’ve been wanting to go ever since I came to Budapest but for some reason I just never found the time. Finally a few Saturdays ago we drove over to the market and meandered through just about everything you might expect to find at a flea market in a country with a history as rich, diverse and strange as Hungary’s.

We arrived at about 8, which could be considered late for real bargain hunters, since the doors open at 6 a.m on Saturdays. But when we got there, there was still a substantial crowd. The vendors had all their wares unpacked from boxes and cardboard crates.

Porcelain? Check. Old military patches? Check. Farming equipment? Check. Paintings of Mediterranean Jesus?

Check. There were a lot of Jesus things, actually. But I wouldn’t say there was a theme to any of it. I think you could find just about anything at Ecseri. And even when you go there not wanting or expecting anything, I imagine that a common reaction to the sea of stuff is: I think I need that.

Sculptures. Heirlooms. Old Clocks.

And a lot from the Soviet-era. If you’re interested in Soviet or Communist history, go to a flea market in Central or Eastern Europe. It’s living, three-dimensional history in a place like Ecseri.

As a closet romantic, I really love old typewriters. And there were quite a few at Ecseri, equipped, of course, with the Hungarian keyboard.

There were a lot of old toys. Scary, scary old toys and stuffed animals and dolls whose vacant, 19th century eyes really gave me the creeps.

I don’t know why anyone would want an old stuffed animal with someone else’s baby’s saliva on it, but it’s always those old bears that turn up on Antique Roadshow and end up being worth thousands. Some of the fancier booths had beautiful jewelry and very expensive looking estate silverware.

And various replacement pieces in case you lost your giant home crucifix.

It’s a place where you can’t help but imagine the charm of older times.

A place where the stories of the old uniform, Russian icons, antique water jugs, and family portraits are more important than the items themselves. I think flea markets must be one of the last places on Earth where strangers talk to each other face to face.

You can reach Ecseri, which is on Nagykörösi út, by public transportation, but it’s just as easy to catch a cab, since the market is just outside of the city. Take a Hungarian friend if you really want to haggle prices, because as the flow of tourists have increased over the years, the bargains have decreased. That’s not to say you won’t find bargains, but probably you have to know your stuff. Keep in mind that if you want to purchase antiques, no one will stop you, but you have to have permission from the Museum of Applied Arts before taking them out of the country. Whether you are looking to spend an early morning in sensory overload, learn more about the history of the Magyars, or find an elusive Herend Porcelain vase to take back to your home country, Ecseri is definitely not a place to miss in Budapest.

Szabadság tér

Posted on by
4

A few weekends ago we were a little bit early for my birthday dinner and decided to walk around a little bit. I’m not sure how, or why, but we had never found this before:

But seriously, you can throw a pebble in just about any direction in this city and hit a beautiful square.

Szabadság tér, which means Freedom Square, is right in the heart of the 7th district and it is surrounding by a lovely park and beautiful buildings. These include the Hungarian National Bank and the Hungarian Television Building. And I guess I really should have known this square, since it houses the U.S EMBASSY!

In the center of the square, there is a memorial statue for the Soviet Union’s “liberation” of Budapest at the end of WWII. I have to say that it’s quite strange to see a big, golden Soviet obelisk and emblem in the city.

It’s the only Soviet statue that still exists inside of Budapest. The last one (big ol’ statue of Lenin) was taken down in 1989.

There are a few cafes and a playgrounds in the area and it seems to be in a great location for people watching, especially after a day of downtown tourist activities. If you’re coming to Budapest for the summer, you might want to check out some of the lesser known or local known parks, squares and gardens. They are definitely the place where you’ll find quiet corners to enjoy a nice drink and relax before gearing up for Pest’s endless nightlife.

UPDATE from Budajest’s expert history consultant, Szabó Zsolti bácsi: “When the Russians finally left Hungary in 1991, the agreement said that they can keep one statue or monument in the country, and they choose Freedom Square. All the others were eliminated or transported to the Statue Park. “

BRAINS!

Posted on by
Reply

I have been meaning to write about my lovely birthday dinner all week, but I’ve been distracted by the torrents of rain and trying to catch up on work. I keep hearing the song “I Need A Dollar” by Aloe Blacc. Probably because I listen to it about 20 times a day.  Who’s watching the HBO show How To Make It In America? I just adore that show.  But I digress.

Last Friday we went to Iguana, the closest thing Budapest has to a Tex Mex restaurant, a tradition I really miss from my American birthdays (and also the other 51 weekends of the year).

Iguana is a pretty good cantina-style joint. The food is good and the drinks are good and I won’t write a review about it here because considering the amount of American and British accents I heard last Friday, I’m sure that if you live here and are reading this blog, you’ve already been there. Really, I didn’t hear one Hungarian word all night.

We had a nice mix of foods, and the drinks from a few pictures above were called Bloody Brains, which Zsolt insisted that we order. They were delicious and fun and about 1/2 the price of the mid-grade tequila. Plus they felt creepy and brainy in the mouth, which was a selling point for me! Flavor? Sweet with a woody after-bite.  Mouth feel?  Brainy.

The japapeno poppers were especially delicious. I love this picture because of Györgyi’s creeping shadow going in for another kill. We didn’t take pictures of all of the food because the lighting was bad. And our hands were full…

At least we kept our promise to not mix drinks.

The night was such a blast though. Zsolt and Szilvi gave me two tickets to attend a beer academy! And I am seriously going to add this course to my CV once we’ve attended. And Marci and his girlfriend Ági were also able to make it, even though Marci was stuck in Szeged most of the day.

It was honestly one of the best birthday dinners I’ve ever had. And just so I wouldn’t forget my previous brush with important lessons of cake candle fire safety—

A birthday candle that really announced its presence.

Thirty Flames

Posted on by
3

So yesterday was my 30th birthday.  It’s shocking to even type that now.  I remember when I was 10 and thought… in just six years I’ll be driving.  I was in the car with Mom on Misty Lane in Copley, Ohio.  And later that night she pulled to a stoplight on Route 18 (this was way before it became an eyesore of commercial development)– and she turned to me and said Don’t EVER do this!– before drag racing a black truck next to us, then pealing onto the interstate.  She won. I hope ten years from now, when I’m the age she was then, I can be that cool.  These might help:

Woo!  Ray-Ban Wayfarers. Györgyi got me these for my birthday.

And my parents sent me the most beautiful turquoise bracelet:

Györgyi also gave me a beautiful ring (story to come in another post):

It’s white gold and ivory and has a Hungarian folk-inspired design to the pattern. It was created by a very rad local jewelry artist, Bence Fördős. His pieces are very unique—think jewelry journeyman meets 22nd-century metallurgist.

So it’s just the beginning of the weekend here and tonight we’re going out for “Mexican” food and margaritas with some friends. And then I suppose I’ll get back to the business of starting my 30s.

It’s off to a bright start, I think.  Györgyi paraded out the cake with 30 candles last night.  And I bowed my head and shut my eyes tightly to make my birthday wishes for the decade ahead of me.

Then I set a little bit of my hair on fire.

Yellow

Posted on by
Reply

Easter weekend has come and gone, and though it’s just Tuesday, I’m a little behind on my days. We had a day-off for the Easter Monday tradition, which frees up a full day for Hungarian men to throw water on women in a fertility ritual that pre-dates Christianity altogether. (We stayed inside with movies and Turkish food).

On Saturday we went to the Hungarian National Museum (me, Györgyi and her nephew Máté). I’ve never been to the National Museum. It’s beautiful, and an emblem of many freedom movements for Hungarians, since it is where poet & revolutionary, Petőfi Sándor, recited his famous call-to-revolution poem).

They have a huge Hungarian collection, which I’d like to see on another day when I really have time and energy to explore. On Saturday we were there to see the collection of photographs from this year’s Hungarian Press Photo exhibition.

After the exhibition, we went to the castle district (District I) to walk around. And of course to take the required parliament-in-the-background group photos.

To be completely honest, I’m really not a big fan of the castle district this time of year, or day, or holiday. Maybe it’s because I’ve seen these places in all of their quiet loveliness that I really can’t stand to be there fighting through the crowds. This is, I admit, a curmudgeonly view. But it’s where I am with my love/hate relationship with city tourists.

I was happy to look up and see that the top portion of scaffolding has been removed from Mátyás Templom. Which means that they might be nearing the end of renovations–hopefully by the time my family arrives this summer.

My crusty outlook improved when we went to the back of the castle wall, where there is a walkway overlooking the Buda Hills. There were almost only locals back there, doing what locals do best in the spring sunshine–enjoying it.

We admired the universal language of spring holidays, documented in chalk.

And what’s more Spring than PUPPY!  And the real 2010 Easter Miracle? — That these two gentlemen didn’t get their dog dognapped, by me.

The Castle District is about colors.

And contrasts.

Which are never more apparent than in the eye of an easy, afternoon sun. It makes you wish that window was your window, that bench, your bench.

As the shadows follow you through the narrow alleyways, you imagine the history of afternoons here, and a kind of gentle time passing.

With loving family.

And loyal friends.

Szeged, Bricket & Barnabás’ Booze

Posted on by
2

I’ve had a pretty busy week. Organized some submissions, wrote a few letters, revised a paragraph and line here and there, and so on.  On Wednesday, Györgyi had to do some work in Szeged so Barnabás and I tagged along.  I’m not sure if I ever said this on the site, but we have a second apartment in Szeged, which we lovingly refer to as the pit because when we bought it, the city started doing construction on a new tram line just down the road and there was dirt and huge holes everywhere ( & I also greedily and frequently steal lines/concepts/jokes from the best show on television, Parks and Recreation.)

So back to Szeged.

The weather has been so nice here, and even though it rained a little bit on Wednesday in Budapest, it was sunny in Szeged (the City of Sunshine)! So we went to the park in the late afternoon and let our beast run around. We tried to deter Barnabás from going up to old ladies in the search of food by throwing a Frisbee around, but we ended up playing ourselves. Unfortunately now, at nearly six years old, he is a dog who never really learned how to play at anything, so he just looks at us like we’re total dummies when we try to get him to run and chase something. Györgyi has slowly been able to make him bring a tennis ball back to her when we’re in the apartment, but it only lasts for about 10 throws before he runs and hides with the ball on the deck or under the pillows, growling and barking at it.  And that play has taken about a year of repetition.  (Which is just a little odd since he learned how to shake in about 15 seconds when he was getting rewarded with food).

All of the trees are in bloom or are blooming this week. And it feels like a whole new world again.

We wanted to have an early dinner outside, to enjoy the nice weather, so we headed to the restaurant we always go to in Szeged, Kiskörössy Halászcsárda. We call it the fish soup restaurant because that’s what they serve.

Since we didn’t have much to eat all day, we ordered a little appetizer of fish “cracklins”, which is not the same thing as southern cracklins. But, almost as good for you! These are little fish pieces, the best bits that no one eats except in the soup, fried. The best parts, in my opinion, are the cheeks and the roe (eggs). And you can see from my picture the big cauldron of soup. Hungarians LOVE cauldrons and cooking savory things inside of them. I wish someone made chocolate mousse in a cauldron that big.

As we finished eating, we watched the Hungarian summer Olympians (kayak and canoe) who were training on the Tisza River. They won many gold medals in Beijing, so I suppose they aren’t wasting any time in training for the London summer games (and also why they weren’t eating fish cracklins). They looked amazing on the water. The fluid drag of the oars was so calming to watch, and how shoulder to arm to water look like one long limb.

They turned around soon after though because a giant storm cloud was approaching. We ended our meal and made it back to the car before any rain fell. These days are one of the reasons why I really adore Szeged. Budapest is an amazing city to live in. You can find almost anything and do almost anything (except get a coffee before 08:00). But once in a while it’s nice to have a quiet day and a dinner outside on the bank of an old river.

And since it’s Friday, I hope that everyone will have a fun and safe holiday weekend. I’m not making ham because I hate it. I find it torturous to eat, to tell you the truth. So I’m pulling out some Passover recipes instead. Györgyi has secured a 3kg brisket (or as she calls it, bricket) from a Buda butcher, and we’re planning on spending some quality family/friend time in Budapest.  (And with a little attention, hopefully keep Barnabás bácsi away from the booze.)