Čakovec, Croatia

When I was a kid, I remember watching Neil Zurcher’s segment on Cleveland’s WJW-TV called One Tank Trips. I used to love that show–how he’d meander the country roads looking for the undiscovered Ohio. Those were the days when you’d actually consider spending a FULL tank’s gas money on an Ohio travel odyssey, which I’m sad to say I think is something that many people wouldn’t consider doing anymore. Still, it really influenced my appreciation for Ohio and for travel, long before the Anthony Bourdains came around and made traveling hip.

Since coming to Europe, I’ve found that despite the fact that gas is about three times as expensive in the US, people still love to travel, even by car. Day trips, weekends, whatever, people are on the move and looking for that undiscovered thing, whether it be a castle, a quiet beach or a cabbage festival.  Györgyi and I travel a lot, and to a lot of big name places. But recently we’ve taken to going to quieter locales that don’t always make the must-see lists.

Yesterday, Sunday, we decided to drive down to Čakovec, Croatia. It was a true one-tank trip and one of the most pleasant days I’ve experienced in a long time.

Čakovec is named after the Hungarian Count, Dimitrius Csáky who built the castle there in the 13th century. The castle was later owned by the Zrinski family and it was the location of the Zrinski-Frankopan conspiracy, which was one in a very long list of attempts to overthrow the Habsburgs. But before Csáky, the area was the Roman town Aquama, marshland and legionnaire camp.

The castle is located inside of Zrinski park.

The weather was perfect just before noon, which was a relief to us since it has been raining and storming for what seems like months now in Budapest. And there weren’t a lot of people in the park or the castle, which gave us plenty of opportunities to take pictures of our little monster.

The city is located just a few steps outside of Zrinski park. On Sunday, there was a little street basketball tournament taking place. Everyone else was strolling around town and enjoying the late morning at one of the many cafes.

I loved the arch and curve of the streets. It offered perfect lines for beams of the high sun, and that quaint Adriatic pose of a resting town.

Čakovec is a small town. In addition to the town’s center, there are a few schools, a library, a cultural center, and one bypass that where the town’s only traffic lights are located. There is one sports stadium, which holds 7,000 or half of the town’s population.

We sat down at one of the cafes before leaving. Our waitress didn’t speak English so we ordered the universal language beverage: Coke. Honestly there’s almost nothing better than a cold, .25l regular Coke on a sunny, Croatian Sunday. And after we finished and our straws were empty, we went back to the car and drove the 3 hours home. Two toll booths, one EU customs and passport check (which we almost failed because we forgot Barnabás’ passport)  and the much beloved Marche petrol station where we enjoyed a delicious Hungarian lunch. And we did it all on just one tank.

Szeged Days

Last weekend was Szeged Days, which corresponded with the week-long wine festival. What made the weekend all the more special was the abundant sunshine after a week of storms. I commented to Györgyi that it honestly seemed like every single person in Szeged was outside, near the festival and the bridge where the vendors were selling folk arts. But really, it had to be more than just every person in Szeged. Szegedi-born Budapesters returning home for the weekend, and other tourists from our Carpathian region. Crowded streets? Yes. But this is what this season is all about.

When the weather and our colds improved, we headed out to sample some of the wines. The Budapest International Wine Festival, which I am thrilled to find out will be held this year during the time when my parents are going to be visiting, is a much bigger to-do than the Szeged wine festival. Just as Budapest itself is a bigger to-do.  Which is what makes living in Szeged part-time and enjoying the more subtle festivals and relaxing unpretentious atmosphere so enjoyable. Plus, the one in Szeged is free to enter.

There were many different types of wineries represented at the festival. Even this year’s Winery of the Year (and constant recipient of international gushes), St. Andrea had a stand. The St. Andrea winery is owned by György Lőrincz and his wife/muse, Andrea. It is located in Eger, which is one of Hungary’s most historic wine regions. We are really lucky to have arranged (with Andrea herself) a wine tasting and tour for September when my family is going to be here. And after what we tasted this weekend, I can’t be more excited.

We spent a few nights exploring the stands and tasting some new wines from lesser known regions. And of course, there was plenty of music, food and friends!

Tables were set up all along the stands, so people could buy their wine (glasses or bottles) and sit down to enjoy.

After you’ve had nearly a bottle of wine, it’s really almost impossible to say no to homemade chips. Homemade chips are not a feature of Hungarian festivals. They were strangely American, actually. So I only ate them because it was my patriotic duty. And that sweet Kürtőskalács? Well I ate some of that too. MEDIC!

The next day, we strolled through downtown and the closed bridge where vendors selling just about everything were jammed stand to stand. I desperately wanted a lemon tree, but since I can’t even get basil to grow, I think I’ll wait until next summer to work up to trees.

The cool thing about the day is that even people in their traditional outfits didn’t seem like they were doing it for the sake of anyone else, for tourists or to sell their crafts. It was genuine, special, and in line with the tradition, history and celebration of the city.

Kids and proud parents out and enjoying the sun. And because of all the late spring rain, the river Tisza was starting to flood. They actually closed down the road on the bank of the river because it breached the banks. Szeged has a painful history of high waters, so the trip along the bridge under the swollen Tisza was an acute reflection of Szeged’s Days, in all forms.

There are a few of these guys at every festival. Damn I adore that beer-filled tankard.

Cotton candy as big as your whole upper body. This picture is exactly why I love this place.

Saturdays

So the sun has returned, which makes a late Saturday in May so much more enjoyable. I’m in Szeged, City of Sunshine, right now, attending the wine festival and local Szeged days. There is a Christian holiday on Monday so work is canceled, and since both Györgyi and I have been long suffering in the pit of spring colds, we’re going to take full advantage of this weekend!

I took these pictures a few weeks ago, on a particularly bright Saturday morning. Bright sun + clear sky is the standard for Budapest in the warmer month, but after the long, gray winter, there is nothing better than sun announcing her return.

The colors of Buda are summer hues.

All winter the docks were empty, except for the permanently stationed water-front restaurants. But now, riverboats are lining the Pest side of the river, spilling thousands of visitors out of their rocking bellies. Sometimes the crowds are overwhelming, but this is such a great time to visit Hungary. And now that the week of rain has stopped and the air is warm, I’m going to leave my computer and go and join the rest of the sunshine city outside. Fish soup on the banks of the Tisza and a little afternoon wine.

Color Splash & Spring Colds

This time last year I had a terrible case of strep throat.  This year, Gyorgyi has graciously given me a spring cold. She picked it up from a few geologists at work, but I’ve come to despise this one week of the year. We’ve both been sick and it’s been cold and rainy and all around miserable. But, in 1.5 weeks my brother is going to be here, along with the summer, and everything should turn around. (along with my very behind blog posting!)

Until then, I will post a few photos I took with my new iPhone and the Color Splash application. I have a new $1,000 camera which I adore. But as it turns out, there are some pretty incredible photo apps for the iphone, which make even cam. phone pics seem professional. With the Color Splash application, you can extract some colors and then put a few back.  Pretty cool.

(Szeged Park)

(Our Cowboy)

(Red)

(The Ball)

Running of the Cows

A few weeks ago we went to a little village called Nagyvázsony (population just over 1,800) very near to Lake Balaton and Veszprém. They were holding their annual event where the town gathers together and walks the cows to the pasture.

We were running a little late because as soon as we neared the lake, opening everywhere before us were these enormous fields of yellow flowering plants. Fields extending to the horizon and interrupted only by varying and bright greens and blues. The endless April rains really did their job. So of course we had to stop for pictures.

By the time we made it to the event, it was basically over.  All of the townspeople were walking away from the fields and home to a nice, Saturday dinner.

At the far end of the pasture where the dirt road leads only to the hillside and the ancient castle, we found a group of men guiding the rest of the cows (and one very stubborn calf) to the fields.

It was kind of romantic in that city-girl-mingles-with-cows-from-camera-distance kind of way.  I wanted to pet them but they were HUGE.  I didn’t realize how HUGE cattle are with their big bovine heads that look much less docile when you’re right up next to them.

It was worth the nearly 2 hour trip to Nagyvázsony.  Sun on the lake, and on the flowering fields.  Pure joy. And of course Barnabás had a chance to run his little spaniel heart out.

Vári Cukrászda

Well the season is upon us again.  Ice Cream Season! And as soon as the temperature flopped above about 65 F, Hungarians and the rest of us luckies living here marched the the nearest cukrászda for a scoop. Or two.

Based on Marci’s recommendation we drove alllllllllllllllll the way out to District 16 to go to Vári Cukrászda. Keep in mind that there are about 15 cukrászdas in our district alone, so to leave for the outskirts was a major test of our desire to have a good scoop. When we saw the little shanty building busting at its indoor and outdoor seams with people, we knew we had found the right place.


Once we made it to the front of the line the exact wonder of the tantalizing flavors was revealed. From the berry to the savory, their award-winning bio-milk only ice cream all looked beautiful. I had some kind of mint and chocolate scoop and a scoop of arabian coffee. Györgyi had a fig and a scoop of rhubarb, which she thinks is called Rhubarbara in English (like a proper lady).

This is not a white gloves service kind of place, so if you want that, stay in District V. But for maybe the best ice cream in Budapest (I know, I know, those are fighting words) visit Vári Cukrászda. Enjoy the flavors, the atmosphere and (finally!) this gorgeous weather.

Vári Cukrászda
1162 Budapest, Szlovák u. 86
+36 (1) 409-5107