This morning at 5:30 a.m. my dad, Györgyi, Brandy, Jeff and I left Dataw and headed over to Hilton Head for the 23rd annual Piggly Wiggly turkey trot 10K. It was an absolutely gorgeous morning and we (along with 1,400 other runners) joyfully trotted through the island. Getting the t-shirt (above) was our primary motivation, but we all ended up having such a wonderful race and early Thanksgiving morning.
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
August 20th is St. Stephen’s Day, which is one of the major national holidays here in Hungary. There are many parades and parties, and always extensive firework shows throughout the country. The day commemorates the transfer of St. Stephen’s old bones to Buda.
Stephen was Magyarland’s first king, and for introducing Christianity to the people (and a few miracles), also her first saint. It was my fourth St. Pistike’s day, and we had a nice little family firework watching from our living room window!
Here’s what I wrote last year about St. Stephen’s Day:
…he was born Vajk to the pagan chief Géza, was baptized as a Christian at ten, and after a long and successful battle with his eeeeevil pagan uncle, Koppány, ultimately brought unity to the Magyar tribes and Christianity to Hungary. Pope Sylvester II gave him a crown and in 1083, and Pope Gregory VII canonized him. The day is a public holiday in Hungary and it commemorates when St. Stephen’s relics were transferred to Buda. During communism, they tried to de-emphasize the saint-y-ness of the holiday and call it a celebration of new bread or celebration for the end of the harvest, but since then, the saint-y-ness has been back, baby!
On an average day—in Spring, let’s say—the little town of Mohács is home to less than 20,000 people. There are a few factories at the edge of town where many work building giant agricultural machines, and the neighboring city, Szekszárd, is a noted grape and wine-producing region. And on this average day, Mohács surely embodies what most people think of as a quiet down in southwestern Hungary.
But everything changes during Carnival when the Busós arrive.
In Hungarian, the Busójárás means the Busó march or parade. It takes place every year during Carnival, and if you want to know more about the history, read my previous post.
Yes, the Busós (or the men and women dressed like them) were said to have followed the apparition of a warrior knight back into Mohács to reclaim the city from the evil, Ottomon Turks. There is a little bit of that story left in the modern celebration. But the Busós today really embody the mischief and fun that goes on throughout the world during Carnival.
The Busó is Iktomi. The Busó is Trickster.
We went for the Busójárás’ main celebration day: the Sunday before Lent begins. And we arrived just in time to see a group of Busós ride a boat across the Danube to the banks of Mohács. They guided to the shore by a raging bonfire.
Then all of the Busós, which must have numbered in the hundreds from all over central Europe, paraded from the river into the center of the city.
And the city (along with the tens of thousands of visitors there to participate in the event) paraded with them.
The people who live along the parade route watch from windows, rooftops and doorways.
Enterprising townspeople sold coffee and spirits on the sidewalk. And occasionally, the Busós stopped in tight alleyways or opened houses for a celebratory toast.
In addition to Busós, there were other people in traditional costumes: women wearing folk dresses, Croatian and Transylvanian, faces covered by lace, a play on mourning and modesty. Keeping in the ghosts.
As scary as they looked in the costumes, the Busós really accommodated the thousands of people wanting pictures and poses. Some were more mischievous than others. Györgyi was poked in the caboose by one of their walking sticks, and we were both squirted with a little, masked water gun.
But we didn’t get doused in coal or goose feathers. And we stayed out of the nets.
I personally was a fan of the Busó accessorizing; especially the donuts pierced through the sheep horns.
There was so much music and groups of folk dancers seemed to just pop up on the side of the parade whenever people felt inspired to move. And even though Carnival is usually geared toward adults, there were plenty of activities that accommodated the younger Busós.
At one point we passed the coffin, which was said to carry Winter, that terrible monster. Later that night, the Busós would again parade to the river where they would light the coffin, and Winter, on fire.
After a few hours, we watched the lead Busó start the final push to the river, with a band following close behind. A few carried Turkish heads on sticks, just as a reminder of the past.
See, this is why people love Europe. It’s not just the monuments or the food or the universal health care. It’s during events such as the Busójárás where you really feel the link between the people and tradition—tradition that is not just historical, but participatory. The Mohács Busós bring out the best of old Europe. Blending legend and mystery with everyday life.
As we walked back to the car, it was as if I could see Hungary just a little bit better. We departed the parade line and found a few Busós on a side street. They smiled, called out the cheers—Egészségedre—Bless you.
After all, we all have a little Busó in us. We revere the past. Wish for winter to go. Eat snacks and drink hot wine on the hood of a car on a cold, nearly spring evening.
And every so often, even the most mischievous among us, are caught gazing deep into the blue Danube from the banks of a small, working-class town.
A lot of countries in Europe, including Hungary, give a day off for All Saint’s Day on November 1st. Like a lot of cultures, people here use the day to go the cemeteries to visit family member’s graves and the graves of friends. Famous dead politicians, artists, celebrities, national heroes, etc., all receive a lot of visitors as well. It was a beautiful day in Szeged so we took a few hours and walked through two different cemeteries here. The first was where Györgyi’s grandmother, Dr. Szabo Irén is buried. Györgyi brought some flowers and dusted away a few leaves. Then we went to the city’s biggest cemetery to walk around and look at some of the plots of famous Hungarians. Is it strange to say a cemetery is beautiful? Both were. There were opulent and simple graves, family mausoleums and walls of urns. Family members were everywhere: walking, sweeping leaves, recounting stories, lighting candles. There was something very comforting and nice about the whole day. And even though Hungarians aren’t very religious, they do really respect tradition and find comfort in it. I took a few pictures to capture what I could of the atmosphere. I think they speak of the fall and of this town.
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I know. Halloween was over a week ago and I have been really slacking when it comes to updating my site. But in the last month, we ended a 5 week late-summer holiday extravaganza, moved two apartments, started a new business, AND had time to throw a little halloween party/housewarming. The party was great fun. I made chili and cornbread muffins, in addition to some sweet treats–brownies and zombie cake pops. There was a lot of laughing, drinking and Activity playing, which is like Hungarian charades. It was a really nice night and both Györgyi and I felt happy to be around friends.
Fall has been gorgeous here and we are loving our new place. I hope to write more soon, but we are both super busy with writing and new clients and projects. But I’ll try to do a little bit better this month!
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I try to start out each morning with a perfect long coffee espresso. Sometimes I add 7.5 grams of 10% cream and sometimes I add 2.5 grams of raw sugar. The star, of course, is the espresso.
In college, or after when teaching, I could pound a liter of black coffee from Dunkin’ Donuts on my way to school, especially before an early class. And there were plenty of nights in grad school when I had to stay up late defending theory papers fueled forward only by fear and a venti latte from Starbucks.
I think that moving to Europe really brought out my love for coffee, which I think is central to many Americans. Only I didn’t know how wrong I had been drinking it for so many years.
I’ve told my parents to start practicing on cappuccinos before they come here in less than two weeks. I hope to convert them during their time abroad.
We’ve been running around so much getting ready for my parents, in addition to travelling back and forth from Budapest and Szeged for weddings, that I almost forgot that tomorrow is August 20th and a national holiday. The day is to celebrate saintiness of King Stephen, though it actually commemorates the anniversary of the holy relic (Stephen’s mummified right forearm and hand) arriving in Budapest. I don’t think it travelled here on its own, but if it did, that would really be something to celebrate.
You can read about my August 20th experience last year here.
We probably won’t be attending any of the festivities this year, though we might watch the fireworks tomorrow night from the part of the river near to our flat.
If you are in the city I don’t even have to urge you to see the fireworks because basically all of Budapest shuts down for them. And they are really a site, so make your way to the river if you get a chance.
As for me, I’m spending the weekend getting excited for my family’s first visit to the “old country” by preparing things for the flat they are going to stay in, and of course stocking up on gin and tonic. I’ve never been the type to wish away the summer, but this year, I’ve just been looking forward so much to their arrival that I find myself literally counting down the days. So I guess I’ll celebrate that the month is almost over and the fun is about to begin.
So I finally got my dreamy, Italian city bike on Saturday. I was debating about the colors, but when I was in the shop, I just couldn’t resist the powder blue. Now she may not be as hip as Györgyi’s California beach cruiser, or one of my brother’s billion dollar mountain bikes, but riding through the deserted 13th district, past the watermelon vendors and public gardens where people were napping in the sun, seemed to make the city even more summery and spectacular on the back of the city cruiser.
July 4th weekend was really nice. It seemed like everyone in our district was away at the lake or pool so the streets were quiet. I made some typical American food along with a few personal bourbon peach pies, which I served with Vanilla ice cream. I’m not a religious person but if I had to have a ceremony, the personal peach pie would be heavily featured in the rite of communion.
I woke up on Sunday morning to find these little darlings. Growing in salute of America’s birthday, no doubt.
So the sun has returned, which makes a late Saturday in May so much more enjoyable. I’m in Szeged, City of Sunshine, right now, attending the wine festival and local Szeged days. There is a Christian holiday on Monday so work is canceled, and since both Györgyi and I have been long suffering in the pit of spring colds, we’re going to take full advantage of this weekend!
I took these pictures a few weeks ago, on a particularly bright Saturday morning. Bright sun + clear sky is the standard for Budapest in the warmer month, but after the long, gray winter, there is nothing better than sun announcing her return.
The colors of Buda are summer hues.
All winter the docks were empty, except for the permanently stationed water-front restaurants. But now, riverboats are lining the Pest side of the river, spilling thousands of visitors out of their rocking bellies. Sometimes the crowds are overwhelming, but this is such a great time to visit Hungary. And now that the week of rain has stopped and the air is warm, I’m going to leave my computer and go and join the rest of the sunshine city outside. Fish soup on the banks of the Tisza and a little afternoon wine.
Easter weekend has come and gone, and though it’s just Tuesday, I’m a little behind on my days. We had a day-off for the Easter Monday tradition, which frees up a full day for Hungarian men to throw water on women in a fertility ritual that pre-dates Christianity altogether. (We stayed inside with movies and Turkish food).
On Saturday we went to the Hungarian National Museum (me, Györgyi and her nephew Máté). I’ve never been to the National Museum. It’s beautiful, and an emblem of many freedom movements for Hungarians, since it is where poet & revolutionary, Petőfi Sándor, recited his famous call-to-revolution poem).
They have a huge Hungarian collection, which I’d like to see on another day when I really have time and energy to explore. On Saturday we were there to see the collection of photographs from this year’s Hungarian Press Photo exhibition.
After the exhibition, we went to the castle district (District I) to walk around. And of course to take the required parliament-in-the-background group photos.
To be completely honest, I’m really not a big fan of the castle district this time of year, or day, or holiday. Maybe it’s because I’ve seen these places in all of their quiet loveliness that I really can’t stand to be there fighting through the crowds. This is, I admit, a curmudgeonly view. But it’s where I am with my love/hate relationship with city tourists.
I was happy to look up and see that the top portion of scaffolding has been removed from Mátyás Templom. Which means that they might be nearing the end of renovations–hopefully by the time my family arrives this summer.
My crusty outlook improved when we went to the back of the castle wall, where there is a walkway overlooking the Buda Hills. There were almost only locals back there, doing what locals do best in the spring sunshine–enjoying it.
We admired the universal language of spring holidays, documented in chalk.
And what’s more Spring than PUPPY! And the real 2010 Easter Miracle? — That these two gentlemen didn’t get their dog dognapped, by me.
The Castle District is about colors.
And contrasts.
Which are never more apparent than in the eye of an easy, afternoon sun. It makes you wish that window was your window, that bench, your bench.
As the shadows follow you through the narrow alleyways, you imagine the history of afternoons here, and a kind of gentle time passing.
With loving family.
And loyal friends.
I’ve had a pretty busy week. Organized some submissions, wrote a few letters, revised a paragraph and line here and there, and so on. On Wednesday, Györgyi had to do some work in Szeged so Barnabás and I tagged along. I’m not sure if I ever said this on the site, but we have a second apartment in Szeged, which we lovingly refer to as the pit because when we bought it, the city started doing construction on a new tram line just down the road and there was dirt and huge holes everywhere ( & I also greedily and frequently steal lines/concepts/jokes from the best show on television, Parks and Recreation.)
So back to Szeged.
The weather has been so nice here, and even though it rained a little bit on Wednesday in Budapest, it was sunny in Szeged (the City of Sunshine)! So we went to the park in the late afternoon and let our beast run around. We tried to deter Barnabás from going up to old ladies in the search of food by throwing a Frisbee around, but we ended up playing ourselves. Unfortunately now, at nearly six years old, he is a dog who never really learned how to play at anything, so he just looks at us like we’re total dummies when we try to get him to run and chase something. Györgyi has slowly been able to make him bring a tennis ball back to her when we’re in the apartment, but it only lasts for about 10 throws before he runs and hides with the ball on the deck or under the pillows, growling and barking at it. And that play has taken about a year of repetition. (Which is just a little odd since he learned how to shake in about 15 seconds when he was getting rewarded with food).
All of the trees are in bloom or are blooming this week. And it feels like a whole new world again.
We wanted to have an early dinner outside, to enjoy the nice weather, so we headed to the restaurant we always go to in Szeged, Kiskörössy Halászcsárda. We call it the fish soup restaurant because that’s what they serve.
Since we didn’t have much to eat all day, we ordered a little appetizer of fish “cracklins”, which is not the same thing as southern cracklins. But, almost as good for you! These are little fish pieces, the best bits that no one eats except in the soup, fried. The best parts, in my opinion, are the cheeks and the roe (eggs). And you can see from my picture the big cauldron of soup. Hungarians LOVE cauldrons and cooking savory things inside of them. I wish someone made chocolate mousse in a cauldron that big.
As we finished eating, we watched the Hungarian summer Olympians (kayak and canoe) who were training on the Tisza River. They won many gold medals in Beijing, so I suppose they aren’t wasting any time in training for the London summer games (and also why they weren’t eating fish cracklins). They looked amazing on the water. The fluid drag of the oars was so calming to watch, and how shoulder to arm to water look like one long limb.
They turned around soon after though because a giant storm cloud was approaching. We ended our meal and made it back to the car before any rain fell. These days are one of the reasons why I really adore Szeged. Budapest is an amazing city to live in. You can find almost anything and do almost anything (except get a coffee before 08:00). But once in a while it’s nice to have a quiet day and a dinner outside on the bank of an old river.
And since it’s Friday, I hope that everyone will have a fun and safe holiday weekend. I’m not making ham because I hate it. I find it torturous to eat, to tell you the truth. So I’m pulling out some Passover recipes instead. Györgyi has secured a 3kg brisket (or as she calls it, bricket) from a Buda butcher, and we’re planning on spending some quality family/friend time in Budapest. (And with a little attention, hopefully keep Barnabás bácsi away from the booze.)
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