March 15th

March 15th is one of three national holidays in Hungary, and this one in particular for celebrating the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. While it didn’t achieve the desired independence from the Hapsburg rule as it had intended, it made a path for it, and created a lot of Hungarian icons in the meantime, both poet and politician. Many of the leaders of the revolution escaped to America and ended up fighting for the Union during the Civil War.

Maybe it’s the wrong word celebration, which is something probably a little overused by Americans. The holiday is about remembrance–for people to get out and show their national pride, heading the call of national poet Sándor Petőfi in his National Song: Talpra magyar, hí a haza. On your feet, Magyar, the homeland calls. And many a Magyar were on their feet on Monday. The sun was really really shining for the first time in months and people were out enjoying it. I’ve uploaded pictures of the day to Flickr.  Click on the picture above to access the short slide show (and yes, there is the requisite sausage-shot).

Second Hungarian Thanksgiving

Well, here we go:  so I just got off the phone with Mihályi Györgyi who has informed me that SHE FOUND A TURKEY!  Of course I was ecstatic to hear this news because it is NOT easy to find turkey in this country.  Chicken?  Of course.  Goose?  No problem Christmas-loving ex-pat Brits!  Duck?  They’re practically quacking out of stores here.  But not whole turkey.  So…ecstatic.

But, she said, you’re going to need to measure the oven.

Why? I inquired.

Well…

The smallest turkey she could find is 17.6 pounds.

Unfortunately, our oven is actually not big enough to fit that size of a turkey.  This is Europe.  They don’t cook in those sizes.  And for two people and one pig, I mean dog, it might be a little bit too much.  And I don’t think it’s safe to tape an oven door shut or to let the top of the turkey touch the heating coils of the oven for 5 hours.  Is it?

But she’s still hunting around, so maybe we’ll find one by tonight so I can execute the homemade brine and other preparations.

Also, Györgyi has to work tomorrow.  She has to do a press event at a well-site about 1.5 hours away from here.  But I’m trying to hold my little American head high.  My Mom sent me great starts– cranberries, stuffing, and two gourd salt and pepper shakers.  And tomorrow I’m going to start cooking so that we can eat together on Friday.  One day late isn’t a big deal.  Plus my 20 pound turkey monster will take the night to brine and a significant amount of time to cook!  And there’s always football on ESPN America.

(I realize these pictures don’t have anything to do with my post.  But they’re calming.)

Yesterday I went to the big grocery store and bought almost everything on my list.  Györgyi arranged for a messenger to find and deliver corn syrup.  I don’t know how she does these things, but I always imagine that she has some connections from left over cold-war smuggling mafias or something.  But I. DON’T. CARE.  Because at least I will be able to make my pecan pie.

In order to not feel too bummed out for not being able to celebrate a traditional, American thanksgiving, I’ve decided to construct a (perhaps) unattainable menu.  The stress of making the food will give me a good excuse to start drinking wine around noon.  Most of my recipes are adapted from Pioneer Woman, Ree Drummond, who is, without a doubt, my cooking (and maybe life?) hero.  Here’s my menu:

Baked brie w/ french herb cheese
Spicy Pumpkin Soup
Turkey (brine)
Whiskey Glazed Carrots
Fresh Corn and Wild Rice
Spanish Green Beans
Mashed Potatoes
Stovetop Stuffing (Don’t abandon me now, foodies, I need a shortcut.  My Hungarian oven may not survive this meal.)
Cranberries
Pecan Pie

Happy Thanksgiving to all of you lovely readers and your families and your pigs.  No matter where you are in the world, in America or abroad, no matter if you have to work or if you’re cooking alone or for only yourself.  If the only reason you are preparing Thanksgiving dinner is (like Jerry Seinfeld) to drug your girlfriend with red wine and turkey so that you can play with her old, collectible, toys, Happy Thanksgiving to you too.  Happy Thanksgiving.  Happy Harvest.  And have a little fun and a little love tomorrow.

A Hungarian Halloween

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We had a little Halloween party two Saturday nights ago for a few friends and it was so much fun.  Halloween has always been my favorite holiday.  I’m not sure why.  The colors, the parties, the dog costumes!  It’s a little harder to find Halloween party supplies here, because the holiday is just catching on, but we were able to make due.

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I made some cupcakes and we dressed Barnsie up as a little old Hungarian lady, though he wouldn’t keep the hat on.  Next year I have to order him a costume earlier, because we couldn’t find any two or three weeks leading up to the party.

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We bought a few pumpkins for carving (it was Szilvi’s first time) and a few Haloweenie plates and covers.  And of course some American candy from the local specialty food store.  Peanut butter cups, Oreos, etc.

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We played quite a lot of Wii, ate some brie, stuffed mushrooms, fancy salad, drank wine and champagne, and just generally had a nice little Halloween.  I burned my batch of homemade Chex Mix before everyone arrived, which I was really bummed about.  But luckily Gyorgyi bought a wheel of brie the size of a truck tire, so I think everyone had enough.  And of course Barnabas went wherever the food and pets were.  He was so exhausted he slept almost the entire next day without waking up.

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The next day, Szilvi and Erika joined forces (with Barnabas of course) to make us an amazing early lunch.  All I know is that it involved chicken and cream and cheese.  I had a great time and I feel really grateful to have fun friends to help celebrate these silly American holidays.  I always feel so much at home in these moments.

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We had a fabulous Halloween this year.  The trees a on Margit Island are almost completely turned and even though it’s cold, the sun has been pretty strong for the past few days.  I know I’m behind on posting, and I still have some Salzburg pics to post and of course all of the pictures and fun from our Halloween party on Saturday.  I’ve been suddenly (& luckily) inundated with freelance writing work, but posting will be more plentiful this week.  Just like this beautiful season!

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For the Freedom Fighters

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Last year I wrote about the October 23rd, 1956 Hungarian Revolution, so I won’t repeat myself in length here.  But I’m going to be in Salzburg tomorrow and I didn’t want the day to pass without some mention of it.

Thousands of people died toppling (for at brief time, at least) the Stalinist regime in Hungary.

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And even though the rest of the world turned their backs on Hungarians when the Soviets came storming back into Budapest a month after the revolution (Eisenhower recommended strongly against helping), what these students, activists, and so many others sacrificed, both on that day and during the swift Soviet retribution, eventually was responsible for the collapse of the Eastern Bloc.

Tomorrow is a national holiday and everyone has the day off for remembrance of those sacrifices.  It wasn’t as clear to me last year how complex the political and social systems are here in Hungary, still, and generally in Central and Eastern Europe.  Then again, the wounds are still fresh ones.  For the Hungarian people, who have gone from top to bottom so many times throughout the last 1,000 years, one generation isn’t that far removed.

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Anyway, the spirit of the people is what is important in remembering.  I’m very proud of those people who had the guts to stand up to something so much bigger than themselves.  I’m  humbled by the idea alone.

relics, music, fire, friends

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Last night we celebrated St. Stephen’s day, which commemorates the transfer of St. Stephen’s old bones relics to Buda.  There is a list of Christian events planned throughout the city, including a holy parade and traditional mass at the basilica, but for the average Janos, the real show is the spectacular fireworks, accompanying music and celebrations.

The whole event was stunning and we were so fortunate to be able to watch the show from the offices of where Györgyi works in the chain bridge palace. Fireworks explode from everywhere (the three central bridges, the National Gallery, Gellért Hill, and even in a specially built pontoon station in the Danube, which had never been used before on a river).  Accompanying the fireworks show was music by the composer Imre Czomba, which featured songs by soprano Erika Miklosa and tenor Attila Fekete.

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I took less pictures this year because it’s just impossible to capture how amazing it is without ruining the experience of watching it, something I learned from last year.  I took a short video, but it was at the very beginning so you’ll hear a lot of Hungarian oos and aahs, and then also during a more somber moment in the show, which was beautiful, but not quite as explosive as the other times.  If you’re interested, a video is at the bottom along with a little more info about the holiday.

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The night was made better because we were able to share it with the gang.  Andi, Anita, Edi and her fiancé Csaba were able to come, as were Györgyi’s brother Peter and his girlfriend Melinda, who were in from London.

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So despite the lack of sleep and the jetlag glaze that overtook me yesterday, it was the perfect welcome home to Hungary.  And with that, here is a short slideshow of the night:

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More about St. Stephen’s day:  The patron saint of Hungary is Stephen (István).  The tidy story is that he was born Vajk to the pagan chief Géza, was baptized as a Christian at ten, and after a long and successful battle with his eeeeevil pagan uncle, Koppány, ultimately brought unity to the Magyar tribes and Christianity to Hungary.  Pope Sylvester II gave him a crown and in 1083, Pope Gregory VII canonized him.  The day is a public holiday in Hungary and it commemorates when St. Stephen’s relics were transferred to Buda.   During communism, they tried to de-emphasize the saint-y-ness of the holiday and call it a celebration of new bread or celebration for the end of the harvest, but since then, the saint-y-ness has been back, baby!

To the Sea

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We’re a few hours from heading to the Adriatic sea on the Croatian coast for a little weekend getaway.  Not bad for July 4th weekend.  The place where we are going is about six hours from Budapest, and about an hour from Italy.

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I’m extremely excited because we’re staying a luxury bed and breakfast that is in a little mountain nook overlooking the sea.  In addition, they have what’s been noted as one of the best gourmet seaside restaurants in Croatia.

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The hotel (4 rooms) is owned by two couples, and one of the husbands owns a fishing boat, which keeps the restaurant fully stocked with all of the fresh catches of the day.  These of course are just stock photos from their little website, but I’m charging my camera right now, and am looking forward to taking pictures of everything we see and experience.

Hope everyone in America, (and all Americans abroad too), have a happy and safe 4th!

Horvátország

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I knew that it was going to be a busy summer, but now that it’s here, it seems to already be flying by.  Tomorrow we’re leaving for Horvátország, which is Croatia in Hungarian.  Croatia (in Croatian) is Hrvatska and it’s one of the most beautiful destinations in Southeastern Europe.  National forrests, unspoiled lakes, hundreds of quaint islands on the sea with ancient limestone lighthouses at the helm, it’s flies under the radar for most Americans as being somewhere over there, and I’m really glad that we’re going to be exploring it for the weekend.

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We’re going to Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site and quite close to the border of Bosnia and Herzegovenia.  There are sixteen lakes, formed from runoff of the Lička Plješivica mountains.  I’ll give a more detailed description of the park and the region when I return on Monday, hopefully with some good pictures to illustrate.

Now I have to pack, make little bags of trail mix, and hang laundry if I want it dried before tomorrow morning.  Today is Barnabás’ nameday, which I learned at about 5am when Györgyi was whispering the name day song to him and feeding him Austrian dog chocolate.  (That is to say before you send off your weekly emails to me with the subject line YOU’RE KILLING HIM! YOU’RE KILLING HIM!– please direct them to Györgyi instead this week.)  But he’s going to have a good weekend too.  We took him to Anna who runs a ranch with her husband on the edge of town  They have horses and farm animals and other dogs, though we just learned that even with all of the animal friends, Barnabás opts to sleep inside, on their bed, with them.

Have a nice weekend, Internet.  Hope June is as bright for you wherever you are as it is here in the Buda.

Long Weekend & River House

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We’re spending the extra long holiday weekend in Szeged.  I’m starting to feel better, finally, after getting another antibiotic yesterday, and we have been really enjoying the warm plains sunshine.  Today we went to the river house so that Barnabás could play with Alfi.  Some people outside of the house to the left were making fish soup in a pewter pot over a fire next to the river.  It smelled totally delicious and the white smoke kept wafting to our yard where we were sniffing it all up and gliding on the patio swing.  Tomorrow we’re going to grill out as well, and we’re going to head back to the buda on Monday afternoon filled up with all of the good Szegedian energies and, hopefully, some good pics for next week’s blurbs.

Balatonfüred, part I

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Thursday and Friday were the most administratively busy days of the conference with registration and presentations, so the only times that we went out to explore Balatonfüred during those two days were Thursday night and Friday morning.

Just a bit about the region:

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Balatonfüred is a small resort town on the northern shore of Lake Balaton with a history that dates back over two thousand years to the Roman era.  In the nineteenth century, Balatonfüred became an important cultural center and gathering point for intellectuals, poets and politicians.  Visitors and locals alike are drawn to the town’s beautiful recreation areas, especially the healing carbonate springs. And the surrounding villages of Tihany, Aszófő, Balatonszőlős and Csopak are known for their fine wines.

Balatonfüred is considered the capital of the northern lake and has a reputation for attracting yachters and coarse fisherman.  From May to September, the quality of the lake water is excellent and its temperature is consistently over twenty degrees Celsius.

During the Communist era, apparently Balton was one of the hot meeting spots for separated East and West German families.  It’s still attracts a large German tourist population today.

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Now, on Thursday night, Györgyi and I went to a little restaurant, Bazsalikom, which was right on the docks of the Balatonfüred Yacht Club.  I called the area “Harbor Town,” because it really reminded me of Harbor Town in Hilton Head, SC, except about 1/100th of the size and without the old Spanish Mosses.  It was a nice end to the evening.  We shared a little quattro formaggio pizza, a few black currant pálinkas, and then headed back to the hotel.

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The hotel was the Anna Grand Hotel.  It was a lovely hotel with a view to the river and the old baths of the state cardiovascular hospital, where people were constantly coming to fill their bottles with mineral water from the natural springs there. Györgyi told me that it was used as a kind of sanitarium, and now is mostly a tourist attraction.  But Hungarians, probably more than any other European, love the healing waters & carbonate springs baths.  And the hotel really picked up on the spa atmosphere that has been in Balatonfüred for about 2,000 years.  It is also a hotel that advertises itself as a good home base for many of the region’s amazing wine tours.

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So because Friday was the day of conference presentations, and I had about 230 MS pages to review, I just explored the lake and shops near to the hotel in the morning.  The lake color was mesmerizing and totally unexpected, and there was such a charm to the foreground of swans and ducks against the totally blue sky and the monastery at Tihany in the distance.

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As all places here during this season, flowers were blooming and windows were opened to the sunshine and fresh air.

Tomorrow:  volcanoes, castles, and gypsy violins under a red setting moon.