Madrid Day 1 (31 December 2009)

I should start off by saying that I am not a good plane traveler.  Haven’t been for years now.  But after a few handfuls of xanex, I’m usually ready to hit the skies.  Unfortunately my trip back to Europe wasn’t the smoothest.  First there were the delays in Cleveland when the pilot actually turned the plane off on the runway for an hour.  Then delays in Newark.  I thought the short 6.5 hours to Madrid would be better, since I ensured an aisle seat.  Only the man sitting in the seat next to me (in the middle seat…on a 757) (who was traveling alone with his 10-hour-old baby)  wanted to switch with me.  And of course I had to say yes.  Not out of moral obligation or general decency but the fear that god would either crash the plane on account of my selfishness or shrivel my ovaries right on the spot.

As you can imagine, I was more than happy to arrive in Madrid, and check into the lovely Hotel Wellington.  You’ll notice from the above picture that there is no large suitcase blocking the shot of the room.  That is because the ground crew in Newark was unable to transfer the bags from the Cleveland flight to the Madrid plane in the hour and a half that we had before leaving.  My suitcase did arrive the next day, however, and was waiting for me in my hotel room.

The morning of New Year’s eve, we went into the part of town near to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums.  Before anything else, we drank a civilized café con leche and planned the day.

We would have liked to go to the museums, but the Reina Sofía was closed until the 2nd and the line for the Prado was over an hour long.  And as we were deciding whether to wait, it started to rain.


So we walked back toward our hotel, which was only about a mile away from the museums.  We explored the neighborhood around the hotel a little bit.  It was stocked with swanky boutiques and designer shops.  But considering the fact that our hair was matting to our faces on account of the rain and I was wearing clothes I had washed in the sink the night before, we didn’t attempt to go into any of them.


Then it really started to rain.  So we popped into a little bakery and grabbed some empanadas to take with us back to the hotel room.  Clockwise from the top left:  Empanada plate, red pepper, queso & Iberian ham, and some kind of meat/onion/garlic one.  They were all delicious.  Click on the pictures to see them in all of their new Nikon D5000 luster.

After a short nap, we looked out the hotel window and didn’t see any rain.  And since my bags had arrived that afternoon, I put on fresh clothes and we left in search of dinner.

We made it three metro stops away from the hotel before the downpour started again.  On the way we ran into a pack of runners.  I’m not sure what the race distance was (because these New Year’s Eve runs were happening all over Europe) but I was glad not to be running that night.  Click on the picture on the right to see the runners more clearly.

We abandoned our search for a restaurant and headed back to the hotel to do what any reasonably minded people would do on a rainy, New Year’s Eve in Madrid:

Eat dessert and drink a sparkling Spanish wine.  And as it turns out, it was the perfect way to spend New Year’s Eve in Madrid.

Mise En Place

For some reason it doesn’t feel quite like Christmas yet.  The grass is still greenish brown.  I haven’t seen one holiday-themed sweater yet.  I’m sitting here at a desk, finishing two articles, and trying to figure out how to inject some Christmas spirit into my bones.  All before next week arrives, I tackle a final set of articles, and I run the gauntlet of menu shopping, gift-wrapping and the endless hours of mise en place, mise en place.

In ten days I’ll be in Madrid, which I’m really looking forward to.  The weather should be somewhat mild, and despite the holiday crowds, I can’t wait to visit Museo del Prado.  Of the entire incredible collection there, I am, for some strange reason, most looking forward to seeing the coins.  I don’t know when this happened, but I’m becoming that person who wants to look at coins.

I’m not sure what the New Year’s celebration will be like in Madrid.  In Dublin it was relatively low-key: the rumbling of poets around temple bar, a few pub tours, a good meal, lovely flutes of champagne with the family at the Shelbourne at midnight.  I’m not sure what to expect from Madrid, but I’m looking forward to the people and the food and the architecture.  And I always say in these moments: it’s a great time to be in Europe.  But is it ever not a great time?

The forecast is calling for flurries.  And with flurries comes the white coating of Christmas.  And for me, at least, the spirit of it.

Merry

Because I’m going to be traveling and away from Budapest for the next two weeks, posting will be light here, as it has been the last few weeks.  I’m pretty sure Santa (or Jézuska–depending on the tradition you follow) will be bringing me a beautiful, new Nikon SLR, so I’m looking forward to a new year with loads more megapixels.  I hope everyone has a fabulous holiday season.  Spread a little love around.

The Weather Outside is Frightful

And that is my excuse.  The weather– for the week off of Budajest–that is.  And even now, I really don’t have much of a post.  Just some pictures.  Thanksgiving.  A few Christmas markets in Szeged and here, today, in Budapest.  The fall was rainy and foggy and ugly.  But so far, the winter has been mild and almost lovely, in the gray way.  We bought a new car.  A beautiful Audi A6 we named Hugo.  And we have a new vacation house in Szeged, which is part of a little Communist bloc of flats/cold-war bungalow.  I’m reading Tim Weiner’s absolutely phenomenal book, “Legacy of Ashes” and the equally incredible “The God Delusion” by Richard Dawkins, for the second time.  I’m writing full time, which is also a wonderful feeling.  And I’m not too far away from Budapest and thoughts on my posts.  So here are some pictures, in the interim:


The Szeged Christmas fair was soooo crowded.  I never knew that the lighting of an GIANT advent candle would bring so many people out, but I think that just about everyone in Szeged was at the fair last Sunday.  And of course, Barnabas wanted to be dressed to the nines.


I’m not sure if he liked blue more than red, but I have to admit that Barnabas is probably the most tolerant dog in Europe.  We had several hot wines, at home and at fair.  All fabulous.


And of course we had to get the new Super Mario Brothers for Wii.  This is the best, classic version of Super Mario.  Like…THE…Super Mario Bros.  I know you nerds out there know why this is a special release this month!  And while I played, in classic style, Gyorgyi made gingerbread cookies for Christmas decoration.  My favorite:  the moose.  Or is it the whale?



The Budapest Christmas fair was crowded and wonderful.  People out buying folk art, listening to music, drinking hot wine, eating kolbasz and potatoes.  A real regional celebration.

And at the heart of it all, a little guy holding his tiny left hand to Santa.  Timid.  When he turned around his face was illuminated.  He wanted to confirm with his mom that she had seen that he.had.talked.to.Santa!!.  Tomorrow is Santa day.  He fills up shoes with candies and presents.  I don’t really understand this tradition.  But I know it’s part of the magic of the season.  And I leave it feeling magical too.

The Long Fog

I think that I wrote a few days ago about the fog that has been hanging its thin, gray curtain over Hungary for the last week or more.  It seems to have lifted today, but this past weekend, while driving through the small southern villages, the fog seemed to take me to an entirely different century.

As if caught in a dream when you realize you might be dreaming but can’t quite wake yourself up.  I suppose it’s a feeling more than any visual image.  But that’s how the fog has affected me the last ten days or so.  The mornings arrived and in the distance there seemed to be some sense of light, but only as if on the water and a storm was approaching.  And at night, the moon barely made an appearance.  When it did, it was only as a hint of itself barely dazzling a strip of light on wanting rooftops.

This week is Thanksgiving, but also, here, it’s not.  So unlike my parents who are anxiously preparing to fly down to Dataw Island for family Thanksgiving, I’ll be here just a little bit homesick.  I have a lot of pictures to sort through from the last week and weekend, and also a lot of stories to recount of more exciting activities.  But something about that old woman in the fog was, I don’t know, familiar.  Perhaps it was the stupid, American image I had of Hungary before I came here.  Before I learned that it wasn’t all old women on worn-torn dirt roads, inched by hunches, surrounded by fog.  But then this weekend it was exactly that.  And I had to post this before I could get on with the rest.