The Long Fog

I think that I wrote a few days ago about the fog that has been hanging its thin, gray curtain over Hungary for the last week or more.  It seems to have lifted today, but this past weekend, while driving through the small southern villages, the fog seemed to take me to an entirely different century.

As if caught in a dream when you realize you might be dreaming but can’t quite wake yourself up.  I suppose it’s a feeling more than any visual image.  But that’s how the fog has affected me the last ten days or so.  The mornings arrived and in the distance there seemed to be some sense of light, but only as if on the water and a storm was approaching.  And at night, the moon barely made an appearance.  When it did, it was only as a hint of itself barely dazzling a strip of light on wanting rooftops.

This week is Thanksgiving, but also, here, it’s not.  So unlike my parents who are anxiously preparing to fly down to Dataw Island for family Thanksgiving, I’ll be here just a little bit homesick.  I have a lot of pictures to sort through from the last week and weekend, and also a lot of stories to recount of more exciting activities.  But something about that old woman in the fog was, I don’t know, familiar.  Perhaps it was the stupid, American image I had of Hungary before I came here.  Before I learned that it wasn’t all old women on worn-torn dirt roads, inched by hunches, surrounded by fog.  But then this weekend it was exactly that.  And I had to post this before I could get on with the rest.

Patron Saints & Fog

DSCN2447

It was a very foggy six am this morning, so thick, in fact, that we couldn’t even see across the river to Buda.  Even as I sit here now  at nearly 9am at my desk facing the river and the water tower on Margit Island, I can’t see the steady-moving river.  Probably by eleven, the sun will burn most of it away.

DSCN2437

Despite the humidity, it was such a peaceful run today.  It had that quality of dream-running, which every runner knows by sensation rather than the visual details.  The heart is pounding, legs moving, lungs expanding and contracting, and yet somehow the view is blurred by the pale sheet of dreaming.  Like mist.  Or, like this morning’s fog.

And because it is Friday we decided to take a different route home, in order to swing by the bakery to get a few fresh kiflis (simple crescent bread with salt on top).  And I don’t know if it was the the different route through old 13th district, or whether is was because of the fog, but I saw so many new things I had never seen before.

DSCN2445

Street signs, old cafes just turning on their lights and preparing their pastries, vegetable stands where owners with their 4am hair lightly water and sweep the stoops.  And on Visegrádi utca this strange little inlaid statue of a saint pouring water onto a burning building.  It looks like it says Saint Flora, but she is the patron saint of the abandoned, converts, single laywomen and victims of betrayal.  So maybe they cut the name short or smashed it into the bottom, just out of sight.  Saint Florian, who is the patron saint of chimney sweeps and fire fighters.  The date:  1935.  And the building was built up again, perhaps damaged again during the war and other occupations, and still stands today.  It’s amazing what you notice in the fog.  Probably because your eyes are just waiting for a cleaning and then you really take in what is available to be seen.  And I know that there is an undisciplined tendency to use words like “perfect” on Fridays, but it was a good morning.

This weekend is the cheap movie weekend here–film days–film napok.  Almost all movies throughout the city are 500 forints per ticket ($2.75) regardless of the time so I think that we’re going to go.  And if the weather holds, we’re going to try to explore the pest side of the river closer to Elisabeth Bridge.  And if the weather doesn’t hold, I won’t mind it.  I’ve really enjoyed the rain in the last two days and what has been lingering in the air after it falls.