Friday Extraction and Slow Saturday

Györgyi had her wisdom tooth pulled on Friday afternoon. I say “extracted” but she doesn’t like it. I never had to have my wisdom teeth pulled. But from what I can tell, she handles it really well. So we pretty much had a lazy weekend. I made chicken meatball soup, which turned out to be really yummy. And on Saturday I woke up bright-eyed at 5:30 a.m ready to start the day. Because of the tooth pull, Györgyi couldn’t run, so Barnabás and I went out early. He has become such a spoiled brat recently. The entire last 2 kilometers, I was literally dragging him back by his neck.  Honestly I think he didn’t want to be running that early. When we got back to the apartment, he ate his 1/2 milk bone and then went right back to his bed. He was snoring before he even hit the pillow. Tough life.

Györgyi was awake too and we felt like getting out and doing something since the weather was so pretty. Cool air but bright, warm sunshine. We decided to get the car washed, since it looked like it had survived a Bolivian mudslide, and then try to find a coffee. It being Saturday and all, we weren’t going to MAKE our OWN coffee. But, unfortunately, many places in Budapest, just like everywhere in Europe where people don’t wake up until 8 a.m (i.e–midday) on Saturdays, there aren’t a lot of places open that early. In America, coffee houses are like crack dens. Dozens of people piling in and out at a 4, 5 a.m, red eyes pooled with shame, arms twitching. But here, a decent cappuccino is really only accessible at about 8.

So we drove up to Szentendre, a little artsy neighborhood just 20 minutes outside of Budapest. I needed some more pictures of B and the light and people-free streets were perfect that morning.

It’s just about the season for regional tourists to make their way here, as we would go to Prague (like we did this time last year) or other nearby countries/cities to visit. But the early morning, even in the city, is always the best time to take pictures of buildings and cobblestones and rooftops. Not only is it quiet and quaint, it’s closer to that old charm than when it’s clogged with tours.

The only other person on the street was a man walking his Puli. Pulis are loyal, adoring Hungarian herding dogs. But they honestly look like mops walking down the street. This little lady’s name was Coco.

She ate a little trash, smiled at Barnabás, then moved along.

We finally got a coffee and muffin back in the city. By that time is was almost 9 and Barnabás was ready for his 3rd nap of the day. The rest of the weekend was filled with walks, catching up on Seasons 5/6 of Lost, and slowing down a bit. I think in my old age, I’m really starting to appreciate this time of the year, and how nice it is to take the time. (to do anything at all).

Friss Pisztráng at Siesta Cafe

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Györgyi and I had a fantastic day yesterday, which we weren’t really expecting since all we’ve been thinking about it is buying the things on our list and packing to leave this week.  But suddenly, yesterday, things fell into place and we had a really quintessentially beautiful Hungarian summer day.  We woke up at about 5:15am.  The above picture is a view of our neighborhood at that time, and I swear I never get tired of look out over a peaceful thirteenth district skyline.

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Even though we weren’t going to run, since we had covered a really long distance the day before, and hadn’t rested in about seven days, we just couldn’t help being lured out by the cool, almost crisp weather for a short jog.  This picture above is from the Margit Bridge looking the opposite way of Parliament on the Danube.  Go that way and you’re heading toward Slovakia and Austria.  Everything is so quiet and peaceful at that time of day.  It’s important, when living in a big city or a city with tourist attractions, to find times when you can just be out there among things without many people scuffing it all up.  Early morning is definitely the time go to.

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So we did some early morning shopping at the Mountex for a few last minute clothing items and essentials, and then decided to go to Szentendre to find a gift for my Mom that I haven’t been able to get anywhere yet and kept putting off.  And I really wanted Györgyi to be there b/c there is always what I call the I’m Hungarian and local discount of a few thousand forints, especially when buying touristy things:  linens, porceline, etc.

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Szentendre is a great little side trip for anyone visiting Budapest.  You can take the city train there, or a car (it’s about 20 minutes drive from the city) and it’s a cute artsy town filled with galleries and shops from the many artists who have settled there over the centeries.  It’s very busy in the summer, but we found a perfect seat in the center of the square to have a leisurely cappuccino.

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I was never a big afternoon cappuccino drinker in America.  Actually, I can’t recall ever having an afternoon cappuccino in America.  But now it’s a regular occurance, and I’ve come to recognize the virtues of just being still for a few minutes.  Europeans know this very well.  I think Americans could definitely benefit from the slowing down it takes to sit and have a quiet afternoon drink.  Of course a glass of wine or beer is also perfectly acceptable.

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So we sat for a little while and then decided, since we hadn’t eaten since early morning, that we were starving.  And we had the perfect idea of where to go:

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The Siesta Cafe, which we had been to last summer, is, in my opinion, the best place to get fresh trout (friss pisztráng) in and around Budapest, baring your own ability to catch it on the river, season it, and cook it.  It. Is. Just. Amazing.

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The Siesta Cafe is about 15km past Szentendre on the side of the road (between road and Danube actually) on the way to another must-see little Hungarian town, Visegrád, where you can see the Danube Bend.   This place is a classic roadside fish joint.  Plastic chairs and tables and a guy in a little wooden hut frying or grilling up fresh trout and assembling fresh salads and fries.  They catch their own fish and serve it up fresh every day.  It’s absolutely my favorite kind of place.

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I had the trout on the left, which is covered in fresh pesto.  And Gy had the one on the right, which is encrusted in a parmasan crumb before fried.  We both had the recommended side, which is a gigantic salad covered in a spicy honey mustard dressing.  Yes, it’s ice burg lettuce.  No, there are not a lot of nutrients or fancy garnishes.  But it’s just perfect.

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Served with a little bit of fresh lemon (in addition to our lemonade and Heinekens) it was the perfect meal.  Right now, I can say it confidently, that it’s my death row meal.  We were so engrossed in our eating that we pretty much only said oh my god and this is so amazing the whole time we sat there.  People were talking around us, other were walking by the river, we could hear the sizzle of the new fish going into the oil, but we were just there, enjoying ever moment of it in exquisite silence.  I can’t wait to take my parents there next summer (and probably go again in September when we get back).

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We didn’t stay too long after eating, since there were lots of folks eyeing our table.  We drove back to Budapest (about 30-35 minutes), stopping along the way to buy some peaches and some jams from a guy on the side of the road.  It was the perfect summer Sunday, and since I’ve been so pre-occupied and stressed about packing and flying, it was a totally unexpected and amazingly pleasant surprise.

If you’re in Budapest Spring-Fall, you must go to the Siesta Cafe (and make a reservation if you can).  They don’t have a website, but we snagged their contact info and location.  In addition, I might also say that if you are visiting Budapest, you owe it to yourself to see some of the Hungarian towns, the real Hungary.  As I was, I’m sure you’ll be happily surprised by what you find.

The Siesta Cafe

Dunabogdány, Kossuth Lajos u. 129.

Tel. +36 30 9141502